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Routes in Lower Wall

Hangover S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Married Couple T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Eye Arête T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Shit Faced S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Town Drunk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiskey, Neat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yes, Please S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Zeke Federman, Seth Zaharias
Page Views: 210 total · 9/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Aug 13, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

I'm posting this here in hopes that people will see this before they go up to climb this route, because the Mammoth Area Rock climbs guide is way off base, and I want to help people avoid wasting their time. If the nearby 40oz to Freedom gets a deserved 3 out 4 , then this is 0 stars.

This route is pretty bad. Marty Lewis simply must not have climbed this or he would not have gone with a 3 out of 4 star rating in his guide. The FAs probably passed on their overinflated rating to Marty who went with it. This is just not a good line: forced up the wall through dirt, bushes, flaky rock, and dirty cracks. Each pitch is separated by walking on ledges and easy terrain. Unfortunately, you can't see much of that from the ground, and based on the book you will be under the impression there is 3 out of 4 star climbing up higher.

More importantly, if you are crazy or stubborn enough to climb this anyway, you should know the book beta is not good. I was so disgusted I didn't go to the top of the last pitch, so I won't discuss that. But, the rap from the top of (the book's) P2 is awful. No hardware, off a small tree, in a VERY difficult to get to location, and has suspect webbing/cord. You scramble down, next, to a tree with cord in a not so great location for pulling rope, and then do a short 100ft rap off one 60m to a ledge (contrary to the book's beta). A double rope most likely will NOT get you to the ground. Then there are rap anchors for a route just climber's right of the big 5.7 corner.

P1: 0 out of 4
P2: 1 out of 4
P3: Unknown and don't want to know

In short, mediocre climbing, no fixed hardware, sketchy raps, lots of dirt bushes and walking, and just no good reason to go up. I knew the first pitch looked bad, but thought it would get better.

Location

Far left of 4:20 wall. Big corner. Pretty obvious.
A double rope most likely will NOT get you to the ground. Do a few more shorter rappels. Just avoid, even better.

Protection

If you go up and don't want to run it out on flaky grainy rock like I had to, bring doubles in the BD larger sizes (not the #5).

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Love the description of my route!!! Rad!!! Sep 16, 2017
Tyrol Wellingsworth III   Tustin, CA
Shoot I’ll still try it Jul 25, 2018
J. Hickok  
 
Props to you for getting out there and having fun Seth. That's what it's all about anyway, no matter what other people think. Jul 27, 2018

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