Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 65 ft|
|FA:||TR Luke Wolcott|
|Page Views:||79 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Aug 13, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionInteresting route if you want to practice off-width and squeeze chimney - (if only it were longer).
Just go up the crack.
Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.
Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on sector 8 description page.
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
LocationWide crack (more than a foot wide at bottom) about 16 feet left from right (S) end of sector wall.
Just right of a narrower crack which is just right of a wide alcove.
--> see Dostie sector 8 routes Photo | | lower R cracks Photo <--
ProtectionNo fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.
Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unconfirmed so far, but the Top-Rope First-Ascensionist felt that it should protect reasonably with a standard Trad rack, augmented perhaps larger stuff for the lower crack.
Top-Rope: Various rock holes or horns available for top anchor.
For access to top of cliff see ideeas on sector 8 description page.