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Routes in 8-Cosmiques

Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: TR Luke Wolcott + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 83 total, 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 13, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting moves, but the initial hand-holds on the crack are a bit slippery.

Just go up the crack.

Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.
Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on sector 8 description page.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Crack about 20 feet left from right (S) end of sector wall.
About four feet right from a wide alcove, and about four feet left from crack more than one foot wide at bottom.

--> see Cosmiques sector routes Photo | | lower R cracks Photo <--

Protection

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unconfirmed so far, but the Top-Rope First-Ascensionists felt that it should protect reasonably with a standard Trad rack.

Top-Rope: Various rock holes or horns available for top anchor.
For access to top of cliff see ideeas on sector 8 description page.

Photos

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