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Routes in 8-Cosmiques

Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: TR Luke Wolcott
Page Views: 124 total, 8/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 13, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting + rather fun sequence.

Get established in the alcove, then through its roof, and straight to the top.

Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.
Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on sector 8 description page.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Alcove with slightly-overhanding broken face and crack above, about 25 feet left from right (S) end of sector. About eight feet right of a shallow thinner right-leaning crack. About eight feet left from crack more than one foot wide at bottom.

--> see Cosmiques sector routes Photo | | lower R cracks Photo <--

Protection

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unconfirmed so far, but the Top-Rope First-Ascensionist felt that it should protect reasonably with a standard Trad rack.

Top-Rope: Various rock holes or horns available for top anchor.
For access to top of cliff see ideeas on sector 8 description page.

Photos

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