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Smedley's Pancakes
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 40
votes
Routes in (D) Chilly Willy Wall
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Candy Corn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Center Stage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Donkey Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fear Mouth S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Giant Boulder Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Giant Boulder Middle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Giant Boulder Right S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Half Baked Alaska S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Joe Dirt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Sketching S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ragnarok T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Smedley's Pancakes S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tasty Freeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turkey Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Wet Willies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 42 ft (13 m) |
| FA: | Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz |
| Page Views: | 1,380 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Aug 13, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Before I cleaned this and climbed it, I thought it would be an average 5.9 route. Turned out much trickier, difficult and fun than I expected.
Climb crunchy and licheny rock in the the dihedral right of No Sketching to shared anchors with that route. Climb up the dihedral using offset cracks and holds on the dihedral's right side. A strenuous pull between bolts one and two rewards you with easier climbing in the middle section. Stem your way up and climb the faint arête on the right. Move left to the finishing bulge and a perfectly-placed pocket to pull the bulge to the anchor.
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