Type: Sport, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 873 total · 20/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 13, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb #19 in the Bowman Guide

One of the nicest, if not THE nicest, climbs on the cliff! While listed as a "sport" climb, that's only because it's "bolts only" protection; expect reasonable distances between bolts.

START- Follow the path down to the toe of the cliff to a nice base "staging area". A clean grey slab with 2 bolts down low. To the left is a dirt ramp leading to a birch tree, to the right a pine tree about 40 ft up. High above is the arete, the key feature of the route.

P1 - Thin, bouldery moves (5.8- / 5.8) lead past the two bolts. Step right to a thin curving flake (piton in the bottom) and then up to another bolt sort of left-ish.
The bolts get a little further spaced in the super-enjoyable, moderate middle section as you climb left-ish towards a large left-facing corner that forms the left side of the arete.
Up the corner a few moves, then step right onto the arete. Continue up the steepening "headwall" to the final bolt.
Directly over the bolt (crux 5.8) [or, alternately, to the right on knobs 5.7+ / 5.8-] leads to the chain anchor. 170-180 ft 5.8

Descent - rap the route with a single 60m as described below.

"Bob A" COMMENTs: "You can rap the route with one rope in two raps.
 Look for a two bolt anchor with chains to climbers left of the arête out on the slab.
"
Used this today..very nice.  It is about 15 ft left of the arete, a little bit higher than the first bolt on the arete (the bolt that protects the move back right onto the arete from the corner. ) No reason why this couldn't be used as a belay on the way up also.  Especially if you don't have the requisite number of draws. (maybe 10 or 12 ?)

Protection

Draws - lots ( about 10 ?)

Photos