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Routes in 6. The Arete Area

Birthday Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Business Trip S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen It S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 383 total, 24/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 13, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb #19 in the Bowman Guide

One of the nicest, if not THE nicest, climbs on the cliff!


START- Follow the path down to the toe of the cliff to a nice base "staging area". A clean grey slab with 2 bolts down low. To the left is a dirt ramp leading to a birch tree, to the right a pine tree about 40 ft up. High above is the arete, the key feature of the route.

P1 - Thin, bouldery moves (5.8- / 5.8) lead past the two bolts. Step right to a thin curving flake (piton in the bottom) and then up to another bolt sort of left-ish.
The bolts get a little further spaced in the super-enjoyable, moderate middle section as you climb left-ish towards a large left-facing corner that forms the left side of the arete.
Up the corner a few moves, then step right onto the arete. Continue up the steepening "headwall" to the final bolt.
Directly over the bolt (crux 5.8) [or, alternately, to the right on knobs 5.7+ / 5.8-] leads to the chain anchor. 170-180 ft 5.8

Descent - rap the route with two 60 m ropes......or...

"Bob A" COMMENTs: "You can rap the route with one rope in two raps.
Look for a two bolt anchor with chains to climbers left of the arĂȘte out on the slab.
"

NOTE- It MAY (? !) also be possible to reach the aforementioned pine tree with a single 70m. Anybody know for sure?

Protection

Draws - lots ( about 10 ?)
Bob A  
You can rap the route with one rope in two raps.
Look for a two bolt anchor with chains climbers left of the arĂȘte out on the slab. Aug 27, 2016