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Routes in 6. The Arete Area
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Birthday Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Business Trip S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lichen It S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,785 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Aug 13, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Climb #19 in the Bowman Guide
One of the nicest, if not THE nicest, climbs on the cliff! While listed as a "sport" climb, that's only because it's "bolts only" protection; expect reasonable distances between bolts.
START- Follow the path down to the toe of the cliff to a nice base "staging area". A clean grey slab with 2 bolts down low. To the left is a dirt ramp leading to a birch tree, to the right a pine tree about 40 ft up. High above is the arete, the key feature of the route.
P1 - Thin, bouldery moves (5.8- / 5.8) lead past the two bolts. Step right to a thin curving flake (piton in the bottom) and then up to another bolt sort of left-ish.
The bolts get a little further spaced in the super-enjoyable, moderate middle section as you climb left-ish towards a large left-facing corner that forms the left side of the arete.
Up the corner a few moves, then step right onto the arete. Continue up the steepening "headwall" to the final bolt.
Directly over the bolt (crux 5.8) [or, alternately, to the right on knobs 5.7+ / 5.8-] leads to the chain anchor. 170-180 ft 5.8
Descent - rap the route with a single 60m as described below.
"Bob A" COMMENTs: "You can rap the route with one rope in two raps.
Look for a two bolt anchor with chains to climbers left of the arête out on the slab."
Used this today..very nice. It is about 15 ft left of the arete, a little bit higher than the first bolt on the arete (the bolt that protects the move back right onto the arete from the corner. ) No reason why this couldn't be used as a belay on the way up also. Especially if you don't have the requisite number of draws. (maybe 10 or 12 ?)
One of the nicest, if not THE nicest, climbs on the cliff! While listed as a "sport" climb, that's only because it's "bolts only" protection; expect reasonable distances between bolts.
START- Follow the path down to the toe of the cliff to a nice base "staging area". A clean grey slab with 2 bolts down low. To the left is a dirt ramp leading to a birch tree, to the right a pine tree about 40 ft up. High above is the arete, the key feature of the route.
P1 - Thin, bouldery moves (5.8- / 5.8) lead past the two bolts. Step right to a thin curving flake (piton in the bottom) and then up to another bolt sort of left-ish.
The bolts get a little further spaced in the super-enjoyable, moderate middle section as you climb left-ish towards a large left-facing corner that forms the left side of the arete.
Up the corner a few moves, then step right onto the arete. Continue up the steepening "headwall" to the final bolt.
Directly over the bolt (crux 5.8) [or, alternately, to the right on knobs 5.7+ / 5.8-] leads to the chain anchor. 170-180 ft 5.8
Descent - rap the route with a single 60m as described below.
"Bob A" COMMENTs: "You can rap the route with one rope in two raps.
Look for a two bolt anchor with chains to climbers left of the arête out on the slab."
Used this today..very nice. It is about 15 ft left of the arete, a little bit higher than the first bolt on the arete (the bolt that protects the move back right onto the arete from the corner. ) No reason why this couldn't be used as a belay on the way up also. Especially if you don't have the requisite number of draws. (maybe 10 or 12 ?)
![RW gets down to business on the opening moves of "Business Trip" [note the pine tree top center-left in photo]](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/112068666_smallMed_1494319662.jpg?cache=1702071948)
4 Comments