Avg: 3.7 from 10 votes
|Type:||Sport, 180 ft|
|Page Views:||873 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Aug 13, 2016|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
One of the nicest, if not THE nicest, climbs on the cliff! While listed as a "sport" climb, that's only because it's "bolts only" protection; expect reasonable distances between bolts.
START- Follow the path down to the toe of the cliff to a nice base "staging area". A clean grey slab with 2 bolts down low. To the left is a dirt ramp leading to a birch tree, to the right a pine tree about 40 ft up. High above is the arete, the key feature of the route.
P1 - Thin, bouldery moves (5.8- / 5.8) lead past the two bolts. Step right to a thin curving flake (piton in the bottom) and then up to another bolt sort of left-ish.
The bolts get a little further spaced in the super-enjoyable, moderate middle section as you climb left-ish towards a large left-facing corner that forms the left side of the arete.
Up the corner a few moves, then step right onto the arete. Continue up the steepening "headwall" to the final bolt.
Directly over the bolt (crux 5.8) [or, alternately, to the right on knobs 5.7+ / 5.8-] leads to the chain anchor. 170-180 ft 5.8
Descent - rap the route with a single 60m as described below.
"Bob A" COMMENTs: "You can rap the route with one rope in two raps.
Look for a two bolt anchor with chains to climbers left of the arête out on the slab."
Used this today..very nice. It is about 15 ft left of the arete, a little bit higher than the first bolt on the arete (the bolt that protects the move back right onto the arete from the corner. ) No reason why this couldn't be used as a belay on the way up also. Especially if you don't have the requisite number of draws. (maybe 10 or 12 ?)