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Road to Nowhere

5.3 PG13, Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 14 votes
FA: Veldhuisen, Heiser, Hanna, Perkins 2016 (possibly soloed by early explorers)
Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington & Mt… > Darrington > Three O'clock Rock

Description

Road to Nowhere offers beginners a 2-pitch slab climb at an unintimidating grade. It is bolted for the moderately skilled leader but has 20-30’ spacing that retains a bit of the runout tradition.

P 1. Follow the right-angling dike past two bolts and a short thin crack (optional cam) to a small ledge. Continue ~25 m up the open face to the bolted anchor with shiny chains under an L-shaped overlap. (5.2, 40 m)

P 2. Step right, surmount the small overlap and continue straight up past three bolts, the second at a broad 3' overlap. Belay at a small ledge below the large cedar bush (5.3, 28 m). If you want a bit more challenge, continue another 30' of 5.6 to the upper belay.

Solid climbers can combine into a long pitch with some simul-climbing.

Descent is by rappel: Single 70 m: two raps. Single 60 m: Upper rap easy, lower requires ~20’ of down-climbing. Double 60s: One rope-stretcher headed skiers right toward Silent Running.

Location

Three O Clock Rock - far right side of the North Buttress. The route starts about 40’ right of Silent Running pillar. First couple bolts follow a diagonal dike up and right, then straight up to top of pillar. From there, continue up and slightly right

Protection

Six slings will do, or ten if you combine pitches. Bolts are gray powder-coated, so look closely!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Free climbing isn't free, people! Putting in the first anchor on RTN took lots of pounding and stainless doo-dads for your rappelling pleasure.
[Hide Photo] Free climbing isn't free, people! Putting in the first anchor on RTN took lots of pounding and stainless doo-dads for your rappelling pleasure.
Road to Nowhere, 3 O Clock Rock.  Notice location of first belay under overlap, as it can be hard to spot!
[Hide Photo] Road to Nowhere, 3 O Clock Rock. Notice location of first belay under overlap, as it can be hard to spot!
Topo of Road to Nowhere and Mystery Tour, Darrington WA
[Hide Photo] Topo of Road to Nowhere and Mystery Tour, Darrington WA
The rusted quicklink/mallion on the first anchor.
[Hide Photo] The rusted quicklink/mallion on the first anchor.
Looking up pitch 2 of Road to Nowhere. Tyson GeBauer photo.
[Hide Photo] Looking up pitch 2 of Road to Nowhere. Tyson GeBauer photo.
Road to Nowhere - mellow slabbing on pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Road to Nowhere - mellow slabbing on pitch 1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
[Hide Comment] This may be the first route graded 5.1 that I have ever seen. Good to finally see one. May 27, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.3 PG13
[Hide Comment] No, not a typo! It's a low-fifth slab climb, beyond that, who knows? Looking forward to seeing what others think about grade and quality. May 27, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.3 PG13
[Hide Comment] Early season, this route can be dusted with sand and other debris from the winter that makes it feel a lot harder. Send a broom up with your rope gun! May 7, 2018
Marshall Phan
Sylmar, CA
  5.4
[Hide Comment] The quick link/mallion on the first set of anchors is rusted! Plus there's an almost flatten spinning hanger on the second pitch! Other than that the route is more of calf workout than anything. Its quite slippery at the first pitch due to dirt but the bolts are there when you need them. The views are quite nice! May 28, 2018
[Hide Comment] Climbed this yesterday and thought it was a blast. Bolts are sparse but climbing is easy. Flattened hanger on p2 likely the victim of rock fall, probably should be replaced. 70m rope nice to have for rap of p1. Jun 18, 2018
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.3 PG13
[Hide Comment] The damaged hangers are now replaced!

We added a new optional rap station on pitch 2, a bit above the old one. Nicer stance and adds a couple 5.6 slab moves. You can still rap off with a 70. The topo is updated Aug 19, 2019
Mari Simpson
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] really nice for folks getting used to/learning slab! Aug 13, 2020