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Geriatric Journey

5.11c, Sport, 135 ft (41 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 117 votes
FA: Cory Case and Brandi Horn
Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Nappy Dugout

Description

Geriatric Journey is an excellent new route in Rifle, and it is not to be missed. It is a long route that requires an 80 meter rope or you must lower twice. Make sure you tie a knot in the end of your rope no matter what length of rope you have.

The route is characterized by long, steep, technical climbing. A hard crux is encountered right off the ground that you can protect by stick clipping the second bolt and is followed with great, sustained climbing that is mostly 5.10 and easy 5.11. There's another mini crux at mid-height that will probably get easier as better beta is discovered and chalk covers the best holds. You can shake out at the top before the final crux, pulling through the bulge to reach the top anchor.

Location

It is in between Perfect Gun and Z Man on the right side of the Nappy Dugout in the area of the popular 5.10s such as PMS. Start from the same belay area as Z Man and Mr. Cranky Pants.

Protection

20 bolts with an anchor on top and a midway anchor for lowering twice if you don't have a 80 meter rope.

Per Seth Cohen: as of 8/13/2020, there's a bolt missing maybe 2/3 of the way up (or something).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Melissa K
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the hard work, Cory and Brandi! This route is a great addition. Super fun and long. I thought the crux was at the start for what it's worth. Aug 15, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I forgot about the crux right off the ground. I'll update the description. Aug 16, 2016
Grindrite
 
[Hide Comment] What an odyssey! Long, varied, and fun climbing with a couple of crux sections and exciting finish to the anchors. Great job putting this climb up. Sep 24, 2016
Jamie Collins
NV
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Really great route! Super long and sustained. Immensely grateful to the FA party for putting it up.

As of 8/23/17, the 15th bolt is very loose. I tightened back down with my fingers, but it was pouring rain at the time, so I didn't have a chance to re-climb the route with my wrench. If anyone has a chance to re-tighten it, thanks! Aug 27, 2017
Eric Hirst
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Really fun long pitch. There's a lot less chalk above the first anchor (tricky move there) but the final ~5.10 moves through the roof are some of the best on the route. Sep 27, 2018
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
[Hide Comment] As of 8/13/2020, there's a bolt missing maybe 2/3 of the way up (or something). The climbing there isn't particularly hard, but it's definitely a spicy runout! Aug 18, 2020
Mark Hudon
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] I love this route! Nov 4, 2021
Jarrod K
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Moving between bolts 3-4 felt hard for the grade. A fresh (and large) rock scar makes me wonder if something broke here. Great route nonetheless. Jul 8, 2023