AI2-3 Steep Snow
Avg: 4 from 4 votes
|Type:||Ice, Snow, Alpine|
|FA:||H Hoerlin, E Schneider, P Borchers & E Hein (1932)|
|Page Views:||2,188 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||Sarah Meiser on Aug 11, 2016|
The minimum time required for this climb is about three days. Factor in more to account for possible rest, weather or acclimatization days.
There are three heavily used camps along the route. Base camp is located only 1 mile and 500 vertical feet from the road. If its early in the trip and you're acclimating this camp makes sense. If this is not your first summit of the trip, keep going another steep 2.5 miles to moraine camp at 16,400 feet the first day. Most parties also use a high camp on the glacier around 18,000 feet. The 2 mile hike from moraine camp to high camp takes a few hours and requires navigating a crevassed glacier and possibly a few short, steep sections of snow and ice. Stay away from the rock wall on the right side of the glacier; it sheds rock profusely.
Parties typically depart high camp between midnight and 2am on summit day. Weave around and climb over crevasses and seracs to gain the broad southwest ridge. Hike along the ridge until it steepens considerably and then prepare yourself for several pitches of steep snow. Most parties protect this section with pickets. At the top of these steep pitches the ridge flattens and the famous summit mushroom comes into view. Conditions here vary greatly from year to year. The summit mushroom may be a straightforward 45 degree snow climb or it may have a short 80 degree ice step, or anything in between.