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Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British WI1 A1
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Middle Teton
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Beyer South Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bonney's Pinnacle - East Face & South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chouinard Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow |
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Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow |
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Dike Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow |
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Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow |
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Middle Finger, Northwall, Taylor, Inge's/Mega T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1 |
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Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 |
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Pinocchio Pinnacle - East Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Ice, Alpine, 5000 ft (1515 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Hans Johnstone, Royal Robbins, GC, NM |
| Page Views: | 2,113 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Gee Dubble on Aug 10, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
The North Wall of the Middle Teton, accessed from the glacier, is a hard rock, north wall, mini paradise. The access ramp has been scrubbed by avalanches and water drips. There are tundra flowers and clean, overhanging rock.
Only Taylor has been climbed to the summit. The others have been climbed to the “end of the difficulties". The 5.13 has 1 pitch outstanding, a beautiful looking gold arete. The ground above the wall is mostly 4th and 5th class.
None the less there is good climbing and you can “easily” rappel back to your crag kit and sneaker crampons with 1 Rope.
There is also north wall hazards, including avalanche, wet rock, sharp rock, icefall and etc.
Location
North wall of Middle Teton accessed by climbing the Middle Glacier.
Exit right into clean ramp, 5.4 but usually 3rd classed because of dripping water.
Then climb 1, 2 or 3 - 30 m pitches of 5.6 on the recommended ramp and set up under desired route.
Avalanche hazard exist from above and at exit, from summer, full-depth wet hard on rock slab bed, and also, wet loose in earlier season.
Exit right into clean ramp, 5.4 but usually 3rd classed because of dripping water.
Then climb 1, 2 or 3 - 30 m pitches of 5.6 on the recommended ramp and set up under desired route.
Avalanche hazard exist from above and at exit, from summer, full-depth wet hard on rock slab bed, and also, wet loose in earlier season.
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