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Routes in Devil's Half Acre
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CLAWDIDDYBOMBOCLATINSTANTCLASSIC Slab V1+ 5 |
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Cling, The V2 5+ |
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Crankshaft V3 6A |
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Cranky Piston Baby V3 6A |
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Death Grips Slab V3-4 6A+ |
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Devil's Traverse V1 5 |
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Falcor V0 4 |
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Flight of Falcor V1-2 5 |
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Go Make Some Babies V3 6A |
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Oedipus Complex V0 4 |
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Open Wide V1+ 5 |
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Piston V4+ 6B+ |
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Spider's Nest V3 6A |
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Spider's Nest Dihedral V2 5+ |
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unnamed V0 V0 4 |
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Vill, The V1 5 |
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Wave Full, The V5+ 6C+ |
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Wave Mantle, The V2 5+ |
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Wave, The V2 5+ |
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Wipers on the Bus V3 6A |
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| Type: | Boulder, 10 ft (3 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,788 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Brown 1 on Aug 9, 2016 |
| Admins: | SMarsh |
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Description
A short but fun slab climb with tiny, almost non-existent footholds. Start on the horizontal crack a little more than halfway up the boulder. The really good foothold on the left, at the start of the problem is off; the first move was way too easy with that foot. The right arete is also off. From the start, go right hand to a solid crimp, then left hand to a gaston. Get your left foot up super high to the starting crack, and move to the good horizontal crack near the top of the boulder. Match, and top out.
The crux move is definitely moving from the gaston to the horizontal crack. The best way we found to make this move was to get your left foot super high.
The holds are not terrible - most of them are tiny crimps, but this is a slab problem. What makes this climb tough is the absolute lack of feet; make use of any small divot in the rock that you can.
The crux move is definitely moving from the gaston to the horizontal crack. The best way we found to make this move was to get your left foot super high.
The holds are not terrible - most of them are tiny crimps, but this is a slab problem. What makes this climb tough is the absolute lack of feet; make use of any small divot in the rock that you can.
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