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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Madison Goodman, Jordan Noe (July 2016)
Page Views: 274 total · 10/month
Shared By: madskates on Aug 9, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Do you enjoy gardening with your nut key? Well then this is the route for you.

P1: Follow cracks in a corner and belay at a nice ledge with a dead tree, or make a hanging belay below a little roof (this is what we did but the ledge looks much nicer)

P2: Climb off the ledge and up a finger crack through a roof. Follow seams which open for gear till its possible to traverse up and right into the 5.6 finger on the great escape. Belay on a ledge.

P3: Climb up double hand cracks then scramble to the summit.


In the corner system to the left of the great escape.


Single Rack. Small cams and small nuts can be useful


Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Isn't the corner left of the great escape the old route expanding man? Aug 13, 2016
madskates   slc
Great question Greg. From my understanding expanding man is actually next corner system over from this route. The ruckman guide and the new granite guide (while not always accurate) shows this quite well, however it could be quite wrong? Aug 16, 2016

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