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Chasing the Butterfly
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
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Routes in 5-Brower
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Chasing the Butterfly T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Di-Crack Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Di-Crack Left TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Di-Crack Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tangling with Yarn TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ken + Sharon Roberts |
| Page Views: | 685 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 8, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Aron Quiter, Salamanizer Ski, Euan Cameron |
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Description
Variety of moves and rock situations.
Start up the steep gully. Step left to avoid an overhanging section, then back right. Next a gentle section which leads to the bottom of another gully which trends right.
. (Variation: Instead of starting in the gully, start the bottom of the face directly below the bottom of the upper gully).
Get established in the upper gully with a creative combination, then up the gully with positive holds at first, then finish out right on frictiony ramp.
Top-Rope upper variation: To make a line with less side-swing ... instead of finishing on friction ramp to right, exit the upper gully left into a dihedral with crack, climb this up two "steps", but then if the third final "step" (5.8+) is too difficult, just give up and get lowered off.
Descent: No rappel anchor as of 2016 -- so bring slings/cord and rings to construct your own. Or down-climb the route. Or traverse left to two-bolt rappel anchor above the route "di-crack3" (see instructions for Top-Roping access for that route).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Start up the steep gully. Step left to avoid an overhanging section, then back right. Next a gentle section which leads to the bottom of another gully which trends right.
. (Variation: Instead of starting in the gully, start the bottom of the face directly below the bottom of the upper gully).
Get established in the upper gully with a creative combination, then up the gully with positive holds at first, then finish out right on frictiony ramp.
Top-Rope upper variation: To make a line with less side-swing ... instead of finishing on friction ramp to right, exit the upper gully left into a dihedral with crack, climb this up two "steps", but then if the third final "step" (5.8+) is too difficult, just give up and get lowered off.
Descent: No rappel anchor as of 2016 -- so bring slings/cord and rings to construct your own. Or down-climb the route. Or traverse left to two-bolt rappel anchor above the route "di-crack3" (see instructions for Top-Roping access for that route).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
Left-trending gully with a steep start that faces right. Which is a ways left from a less-steep right-trending gully. About sixty feet right from a set of three corner-cracks.
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--> See on this routes Photo <--
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