South Ridge
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British Mod. Snow
| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5000 ft (1515 m), Grade V |
| GPS: | 51.39182, -125.20183 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,148 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Beeduhl on Aug 8, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Hike uphill from Sunny Knob. Low 5th class interspersed with snow fields leads to the base of Phantom Tower in about 3,000 vertical feet. Traverse the right side of Phantom Tower and rappel a horribly loose pitch to the large notch. An excellent bivy can be found here. Climb the snow field up and right to a smaller notch and climb the rock buttress to the ridge crest (several pitches up to 5.9). Traverse the ridge crest (loose blocks and very exposed but easy climbing) to the notch below the summit block. The summit can be climbed in one long traversing pitch. Return to the notch and rappel the ice and snow gully on the back side of the notch to the Upper Tellot Glacier.



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