Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5000 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 370 total · 9/month
Shared By: Sam Bedell on Aug 8, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Hike uphill from Sunny Knob. Low 5th class interspersed with snow fields leads to the base of Phantom Tower in about 3,000 vertical feet. Traverse the right side of Phantom Tower and rappel a horribly loose pitch to the large notch. An excellent bivy can be found here. Climb the snow field up and right to a smaller notch and climb the rock buttress to the ridge crest (several pitches up to 5.9). Traverse the ridge crest (loose blocks and very exposed but easy climbing) to the notch below the summit block. The summit can be climbed in one long traversing pitch. Return to the notch and rappel the ice and snow gully on the back side of the notch to the Upper Tellot Glacier.

Location

The massive and convoluted ridge complex rising directly over Sunny Knob.

Protection

A medium sized rock rack, bail gear for raps, maybe a picket or two.

Photos

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