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Routes in Mount Torment

South Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Torment-Forbidden Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Cooper, Sellers 1958
Page Views: 475 total, 30/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Aug 8, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

One of the most-frequented routes up Torment in a great setting.

From the lower camp (permit and bear can required) in Boston Basin by the toilet, follow the trail up and west, steeply hiking on the right side of the inset Boston Creek (good trail). Near the moraine and as the slopes of the creek ease, the trail crosses the creek and contours over to the high camp above the tundra just within the talus and moraine.

Continue rock hopping and cross a prominent ridge just below the cliffs. A couple slab stair steps with the Taboo glacier above. Climb the slab steps on the right side and aim towards a notch within Torment's south ridge with a bright yellow patch of lichen above, briefly crossing easy glacier.

The right side of the gully below the notch is loose 4th class. Once on the ridge, climb the left side via a short dihedral and continue angling left into another steep gully that quickly increases in difficulty. Escape the gully on left and generally do an ascending traverse for several hundred feet (no harder than 5.4 and sustained 4th and low 5th with good route-finding) on the left side of the ridge on ledges and chimneys until reaching a prominent notch below the summit headwall. Rap stations are in abundance.

The idea now is to basically do a half circle around the peak and summit from the other side. Cross the ridge at the notch to the right side and traverse over until easier terrain on the SE face. Finish scrambling up the SE face (3rd class with brief 4th) until reaching the NE ridge. More class 3 scrambling either on or just right of the ridge takes you to the airy summit.

Descend: Continue on the Forbidden traverse (5.6, 45 deg snow and ice highly conditions dependent), descend the full SE face (haven't done), or downclimb and rappel the south ridge. The south ridge may be best to simul downclimb, or do numerous short, traverse-y rappels.

Location

Park at mile 23 on the Cascade River Road outside Marblemount. The first 10 miles are paved and the rest is mostly dirt with some asphalt. Parking is limited, but you can squeeze in on the side of the road as necessary and set the parking brake. Follow a good trail as it switchbacks steeply up and traverses west across a couple creeks to Boston Basin (1.5-3.5 hrs). Biting flies in abundance.

Protection

Light rack and long slings, clip the rap stations as necessary. Replacement webbing.

Photos

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