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Routes in Kangaroo Temple

North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Northwest Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Fred Beckey, Helmy Beckey 1942
Page Views: 846 total · 48/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on Aug 8, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

P1: Friction climb up a slab trending left towards a tree. Climb above the tree, then traverse left aiming for the gully. Downclimb a move or two into the gully, then up the right side of the gully on good edges to a good ledge with trees. Pro is sparse, but the climbing is easy. 5.7 50m

P2: Climb up the right side of the flake/block, past a tree, and continue in the crack system through a layback and corner above. Good pro and solid rock. Belay on a small ledge by a cave 5.7+ 35m

P3: Continue trending left and following the good corner/slab system. Belay at another small treed ledge. 5.7 30m

P4: Keep traveling left from the belay and take the path of least resistance to surmount onto the Dance Platform. Pro is sparse through here. Keep heading left across the slab, turn a corner and continue up the open book on good stems. Belay at the top. 5.6 35m

From the top of P4 you can unrope if your comfortable and scramble a bit to the top.

There is a variation that continues upwards through a chimney system instead of traversing the Dance Platform. The topo for this variation is in the CAG, however the rock changes character and becomes friable and crumbly, so I will not describe it here.

I'm surprised this route doesn't get that much traffic. The climbing is all on good rock and sustained 5.7 throughout all of the pitches. An easy approach and good tree belays along with good gear make this great for newer climbers looking to hone their skills and avoid the crowds on the area's other moderates or experienced climbers looking for something a little different with low commitment.

Location

Approach: From the pass, traverse to the north notch gully between Kangaroo Temple and Little Finger on a climbers trail. Ascend the gully and look for a faint trail that brakes off to the right about 200ft below the notch; if you have to start scrambling up/over boulders in the gully you've gone to far. Traverse and downclimb a bit to a flat "table like rock" and the start of the climb.

Descent: From the summit, look to the north. You should see the descent anchor there. Two 30m raps will get you down to a ledge you can easily scramble down from. You can make the notch proper in three raps if you don't want to scramble down easy terrain.

Protection

Single rack to 2 and a set of chocks. Pitches tend to wander, a few more long slings are recommended

Photos

Rafe  
As a 5.7 grade route, the first pitch could warrant an R rating.

I'd also suggest a mid belay from the first tree 40ft or so from the ground before making the traverse to the gulley feature. Completing the traverse without an intermediate belay and placing reasonable protection for the 2nd creates a significant amount of rope drag. Aug 20, 2017
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
  5.7+ R
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
  5.7+ R
Lots of quality climbing but marred by the circuitous and runout first pitch (R for leader, PG for follower IMO). It's not like it could be easily fixed with a bolt or pin, as the runout groove is commonly wet. If only a better start could be found, this would be a true classic

The Beckey guide has a nice topo but misleading text. The description above is good, except that you will traverse RIGHT after the tree on pitch 1, pretty obvious actually. The comment above on the additional tree belay is a good one. Aug 20, 2017