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Routes in Phasak River Wall

62 BPM S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cafe Bolan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crackodile S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Democrature S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
District 9 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exhale S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Expertease S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Free Papua S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gaelita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hin Tok S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hong Thong Power S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inhale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jungle Thai S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Koutoukou S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Local Solution for Global Confusion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Maitiki S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mineral Mystic S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Most....In The World, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neau Neau (North North) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Breakfast S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
On The Rock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pasak Ride S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Protect Me S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sadao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sea Lover S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siam Paradise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spiral Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stop Monsanto S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sweet Lip S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tee Rak Soo Soo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To exist is to resist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ultimate Root S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Verdon Paradise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Verdon Paradise Extension S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Voltaren S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
You Are A Legend S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Ben Grasser?
Page Views: 39 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tao Techakanon on Aug 7, 2016
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

A long and sustained pumpy climbing with 3 distinct cruxes. There are 2 no hand rest in between to de-pump. An endurance test piece for the grade.

60m WILL NOT reach the ground. Make sure you have a 70m if you want to try it.

Location

To the right of the main wall. The left variation is called Verdon Paradise and goes at around 10d

Protection

about 16 draws including the anchor. Some long slings are advice to reduce rope drag.

Photos

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Joseph DeGaetano
Fayetteville, WV
Joseph DeGaetano   Fayetteville, WV
This isn't the most aesthetic climb from the ground but it climbs quite nice and feels about the same as all the other 7as and 7bs on the wall in difficulty. Nov 12, 2017
Add three long draws before the first roof and one long draw immediately right after the first roof to help reduce drag. Not doing so will make clipping at the second roof quite a work. Nov 1, 2016