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Routes in The Pillar

Little Herc T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bam-Bam TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 122 total · 5/month
Shared By: Spencer Perry on Aug 7, 2016
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Access Issue: Sugarloaf is privately owned but allows climbing. You need to be out of the gates before dark. Details

Description

Start in a hand crack right off the stairs. Work your way around the corner using the horizontal until you are into the right facing corner. From here move up the flared crack to another horizontal crack about 15 feet off the ground. From this point the hard climbing is over. Work up the mangy crack to the top.

This climb is in Mark "Indy" Kochte's "Climb Maryland" and Eric Horst's Falcon Guide as a 5.9, but I did not think any move felt that hard. However, you can start in the overhanging hand/fist crack to the right, which is also the start of Darkness Imprisoning Me (5.10b). Linking that start with the rest of this climb felt solid for the grade, and added about 7 extra feet of burl!

Location

Right before the stairs take a 90 degree turn left.

Protection

A couple of hand/fist sized pieces protect the lower crux sequences. The rock up the slab is dirty and possibly rotten in spots, but you can place larger gear if you feel the need.

Ample natural anchors, but watch out for some of the rocks on top--they are loose.

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