Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Routes in The Pillar
|Little Herc T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pebbles and Bam-Bam TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||83 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Spencer Perry on Aug 7, 2016|
Sugarloaf is privately owned but allows climbing. You need to be out of the gates before dark. Details
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
DescriptionStart in a hand crack right off the stairs. Work your way around the corner using the horizontal until you are into the right facing corner. From here move up the flared crack to another horizontal crack about 15 feet off the ground. From this point the hard climbing is over. Work up the mangy crack to the top.
This climb is in Mark "Indy" Kochte's "Climb Maryland" and Eric Horst's Falcon Guide as a 5.9, but I did not think any move felt that hard. However, you can start in the overhanging hand/fist crack to the right, which is also the start of Darkness Imprisoning Me (5.10b). Linking that start with the rest of this climb felt solid for the grade, and added about 7 extra feet of burl!
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