Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 81 total · 3/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Aug 5, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb the easy (5.4ish) crack, placing gear as desired (#1 to #3 cams), to a mantle on top of the protruding rock that forms the crack, clip one bolt while standing on the rock then make one or two moves of 5.6 or 5.7 (height dependent) to reach the summit crest. Move left along the summit crest for 10 feet to anchor chains. (See photo).

Protection

1 bolt, and a couple of cams as desired in the easily protected crack. Two anchor chains on the to rappel from the summit ridge 10 feet left of the top of the climb.

Location

The short crack on McQ's Pinnacle immediately left of the Thin Fin and Chantilly Lace start.

Photos

Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.6 PG13
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.6 PG13
Probably could use a 2nd bolt to protect the traverse-- pendulum fall near anchor would probably result in a digger (this is supposed to be "safe" MR after all). Not real hard there but still physical and awkward for 5.6-- definitely had my attention way more than 5.6 normally does when I led. Aug 8, 2016