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Routes in Party Wall

Bed Spins T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Devil's Lettuce T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Losa TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 150 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Aug 5, 2016
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

This worthwhile route needs more traffic to keep it clean - give it a try! Start by stemming the corner to a comfortable, narrow ledge at 10' height. Pull on side jug and gneiss nubbins to mantle the triangular ledge (crux) - watch out for loose rock at the back corner. A BD #5 can protect this crux, but the wide crack may require some cleaning/gardening. Then use discontinuous finger cracks (at corner) to final mantle move before you scramble up a large ledge to the top. Amazing view at the top!

Not ideal for first lead. One-handed placement required at crux, and you'll likely need to do some cleaning along the way. A great top rope option for new climbers.

Location

A dirty, moss- and lichen-covered corner (climber's) left of the impressive roof on the main face of the Party Wall.

Protection

Stoppers, hexes, and cams (up to BD #5). Easy downclimb from the top to set up a gear anchor at a 3' vertical crack (opposite of tree growing from upper ledge).

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