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Hot n' Stanky

5.10b, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 15 votes
FA: Kristen Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Aug. 5, 2016
New York > Adirondacks > I: Old Forge Re… > Eagle Falls

Description

Almost a sport climb and a little bit of everything. Thoughtful and varied climbing up the tallest section of the cliff.

Follow the line of bolts to a small roof at 20 feet. It's possible to use the corner on the left or for more of a challenge take the roof on directly. A series of strong sidepulls to a jug and mediocre gear. Surmount the ledge and continue up the easy face passing gear and two bolts to a thoughtful traverse left around the roof. Make one final hard move before cruising up the right facing corner to a 2-bolt anchor.

Location

Start 10 feet left of Seventeen at a bolt 10 feet up.

Protection

9 bolts and a few medium cams. Sizes .75 to 2.

2-bolt anchor.

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The view isn't bad either.
[Hide Photo] The view isn't bad either.
View looking up from the bottom.
[Hide Photo] View looking up from the bottom.