Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, 1800 ft (545 m)
FA: Sam V., Ryan S. and Taylor B.
Page Views: 1,638 total · 25/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Aug 4, 2016
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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An excellent alpine climb with great position and sections of splitter choss . From the parking area at 33 mile on the Richardson HWY locate the summer trail 100 meters north of the waterfall.

Travel time to brush line is about 1 hour and allow another 1-2 hours to reach the base of the West Ridge. Once in the alpine meander up rolling tundra meadows aiming for the large glacial valley between Cracked Ice and Python. There is really nice camping along the way.

At 4,500ft you arrive at the Ice Tongue Lake and waterfalls, gain the main glacier by traversing east under Python up the moraine field. Cruise the relatively mellow valley glacier to the base of the route.

Climb up steep/moderate snow and 3rd and 4th class scrambling to gain the north side of the West Ridge.

Belay on a large ledge and ascend up the middle ramp/right facing corner for 100 meters. The climbing is enjoyable and good gear abounds.

The crux of the route is at the 3rd pitch at 5.7.

Continue up the ridge proper climbing 4th and 5th class with sections of beautiful knife ridge gendarmes. And Cumbre, great views of the Wrangell St. Elias NP, Marshal Pass and Mt. Dimond.

Either descend down the main Cracked Ice Glacier or the South West Ridge. The SW Ridge is 3rd class down to the col of Rhinestone Cowgirl, and then walk out via the same valley glacier between Cracked Ice and Python, this is a better summer option.


Light rack to a #2 BD cam, 1-2 ice screws, glacier kit with crampons and Ice axe.