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Beauty and the Beasties

5.10b/c PG13, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 7 votes
FA: Randall Green, Jake and Kim Mergenthaler
Montana > Southwest Region > Sheep Mountain > Devils Thumb

Description

Just to the right of Nemesis. This route follows the arete. Thin holds, generous pockets and chicken heads make this a very memorable route. So does stepping over the chasm at the start onto incredibly small holds (commitment is scary). The route position is very good. No bad parts. It is sustained at the bottom and top.

Location

right of nemesis on the arete. Start on the huge block.

Protection

9 bolts. Anchor is a funky but solid-feeling hook and a bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Bachen
Helena, MT
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I'd disagree that this warrants a PG-13 rating. You can clip the first bolt to protect the crux moves while still on the ledge. The bolt spacing is not the most modern (expect to have to climb above bolts to clip the next), but is more than adequate to safely ascend the line. Jul 4, 2018