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Routes in Mt. Gardiner

Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Vitaliy Musiyenko and Chaz Langelier
Page Views: 651 total · 37/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Aug 4, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The climb is a very fun moderate sustained with 5.8-9 pitches and a few 5.9+ to 5.10- cruxes. This climb is enjoyable and has incredible views from the summit.

Pitches:

1. Climb up from the low point of the buttress following good cracks over a few overhangs and a belay a full rope out. 5.9 180 feet

2. Climb over a short corner and overhang (5.8) and scramble up 4th-5th class following the crest of the ridge till you run out of rope. Good belay ledge. 190 5.8

3) Climb straight up following good cracks and corners, slightly right, up slightly wider cracks. Belay on top of that on a good ledge. 140 ft 5.8

4) Climb into a cool looking fingercrack right facing corner through a handcrack in a bulge and slightly left and up a variety of cool moderate cracks. There will be another tricky overhang guarding the belay ledge. 180 ft 5.10-


5. Climb up and slightly right up cracks. Traverse slightly left into a prominent dark right facing corner with a cool splitter up the middle. You can traverse into the splitter from about midway up the corner, after placing a #1 cam. Top out the corner and belay on a huge ledge to the left side of it. 180 5.10-

6. Walk left into the big right facing corner and climb it to the top, traversing left and over an overhang into an obvious crack. Follow the flowers and belay at a good ledge. 130 ft 5.9+

7. Climb over a few cool thin cracks and face holds. Short chimney. Crest the ridge and follow that for as long as you wish. Full rope 5.9

8. Simul climb or pitch out to the summit, with a 5.9 splitter crack to the top! 200+ ft 5.9


"If Fred Beckey climbed it back in the day it would be in the 50 classics!"
Yes, it would. :)

Location

NW Face of Mt. Gardiner. Prominent tower in the middle of the face.

Descent: Scramble, simul or pitch out the 4th class exposed ridge for a few hundred feet. From there, follow the ridge-line staying on the south side towards Gardiner pass. Descent that back to camp.

Protection

Standard rack with doubles from .3 to #3 camalots

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Great post! Aug 9, 2016