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Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

Boaty's Birthday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Family Picnic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flippin the bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fuck Rumney T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golf Ball Sized Urethra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineers Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schistorectomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Traction Splint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dylan Oliver, Conor Mark 8/1/16
Page Views: 532 total · 30/month
Shared By: doliver on Aug 4, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

The obvious chimney just right of Fuck Rumney, seriously classic pitch the reminded me of some of the climbing at Pokomoonshine.

P1: Gain the chimney by climbing the perpetually wet corner on the right, wet but positive holds with a couple good jams and gear along the way. Dry your shoes off at the small ledge right below the chimney proper and then worm your way up the bottom groove. Move out right as the chimney widens to a powerful crux up to gain the top of the flake then continue trending right until you gain the upper right-facing corner. Cruise through this sweet 5.8 corner to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge next to a warped tree.

P2: Traverse right from the belay moving slightly higher to a larger ledge. Traverse to the far right side of this ledge and move up on good holds to a nice featured slab. Run it out up the featured slab keeping an eye out for a few gear placements, then pull a steep face on great holds to gain the top. Scramble off left to the snap crackle pop decent or find one of the many rappel anchors over on the left side. A top rap anchor is soon to come for this section of the cliff

Location

The obvious chimney just right of Fuck Rumney.

Protection

Gear to 4" will work though you can get a couple 6" and 5" pieces in the upper corner, double rack of larger sizes is definitely helpful on first pitch especially 4"

Photos

Tons of fun! The crux chimney/ stemming moves are wild and somewhat physical. The route can be adequately protected (some moderate runout on the easier upper corner) with nothing more than a #4 c4, though a #5 was nice to have. It is still dirty, but everything that needs to be solid is. Needs more traffic so get on it! Oct 8, 2017
Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
 
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
 
A classic of the cliff, and of Bolton Valley in general. Aug 20, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
Psyched you finally got in this thing! You've been drooling over it for years now!! Aug 5, 2016