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Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

Boaty's Birthday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Family Picnic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flippin the bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fuck Rumney T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golf Ball Sized Urethra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineers Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schistorectomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Traction Splint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dylan Oliver, Conor Mark
Page Views: 332 total, 21/month
Shared By: doliver on Aug 4, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Begin 30 feet left of Golf Ball Sized Urethra and 50 feet right of Snap Crackle Pop at the base of a gully.

P1: Scramble up into a small hole in the rock that turns into a massive chimney tunnel. Climb this with combinations of 4th and 5th class climbing for 100 ft trending left. Pop out on a nice belay ledge halfway up the cliff. (5.5)

P2: Drop down to the aréte on the left hand side. Do a couple bouldery moves to gain the hand crack on the right side of the aréte. Climb this to the top of the same detached pillar as Snap Crackle Pop. (5.6)

P3: Scramble down and left from the aréte to a lower ledge, re-establish the belay, then traverse out left onto a floating boulder. Make an airy move from the boulder onto a right facing corner out to the left. Climb this up and left with a balancy move to finish.

Location

Begin 30 feet left of Golf Ball Sized Urethra and 50 feet right of Snap Crackle Pop at the base of a gully.

Protection

Wide gear needed to protect the first pitch "well". Fairly easy secure climb so a competent leader shouldn't have to much trouble running this out, though a piece or two should be placed to prevent the rope from getting kinked in the back of the crack. rest of the climb protect with standard rack to 4", some run out sections on every pitch but on easier ground

Photos

Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
Pretty cool! A unique romp to the top of the cliff with many great views.

From the top of the third pitch, a two bolt anchor in need of chains can be found on the next buttress climber's left, rappel with a single 70. Aug 5, 2016