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Routes in Mosquito Coast

Ant Line T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Antline Boulder Problem TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V4 6B
Boot Licker T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fly the Friendly Skies TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hanging Garden T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangtown T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hermit Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Mustard T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Octopus' Gardens T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scratchin' for Gold T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sluice Box TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight Lines T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Susan Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Twist and Shout T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Water Traverse V5 6C
bouldering circuit T V2 5+
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: late 70s by Don Garrett and Ron Vardanega
Page Views: 288 total, 18/month
Shared By: GizzardJones on Aug 3, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Both cracks 10a/b, just the right crack 5.10c/d.

Location

Located in The Octopus Garden, under the main roof. Right of the two bolted routes.

Protection

Standard Mosquito Coast Rack

Photos

GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
 
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
 
Salamanizer & Bob,

Awesome history. Thanks so much for sharing your info on this area and helping with correct beta.
I have updated the climb based on your comments. Thanks so much.
Love this place. Aug 24, 2016
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
Actually, the route I Dig Fig goes up the two very steep disconnected corners left of the double crack system in the photos. I did the FA in about 1979 with Rick Holmes, with pins and a hook...remember it being A3+ or A4, one of the last placements being a knifeblade driven straight up half-way.

The double cracks in the photos are the start of Octopus' Gardens, 10a/b if you use both cracks and 10c/d if you just use the right hand crack. FA in the late 70s by Don Garrett and Ron Vardanega.

Continuing above the ledge at the top and to the right of the double cracks is pretty knarly flared off-widthing/layback pukefest struggle through the big roof. Don Garrett led it in the early 80s. He also led the direct face approach on the outside of the gold pillar below the ledge, called The Golden Road. It was pretty hard then, 11+ and is perhaps harder now that a hold broke. I couldn't even follow it on the FA, and I somehow remember it as pretty much unprotected. Aug 18, 2016
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
I don't remember who climbed it first. I talked to the guy once but I can't remember who it was. I aided the route back around 2004. Is my very (now) rare, flat aluminum head still in there about three quarters of the way up? I lead the thing free sometime around 2006 but don't remember it being that easy. That thing far off the right with the "butt cheeks" was hella harder, never did get that one free. Aug 5, 2016
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
 
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
 
Amazing short stout route. I loved the whole thing. Big props to the FA party. Does anybody have any information on the route and history? Thanks. Aug 3, 2016