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Routes in Mount of the Holy Cross

Holy Cross Couloir
North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI3
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1500 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Larry Coats & Ross Hardwick (1979)
Page Views: 534 total · 30/month
Shared By: Larry Coats on Aug 3, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Here's a golden oldie from way back in the day, but I don't find an account on MP or Summitpost, so here you go.

The route climbs the obvious couloir that splits the north face of Holy Cross, between the Angelica Couloir and Cross Couloir. The route was climbed in early fall (September) on alpine ice and rock and includes a long chimney pitch where the couloir funnels down mid-face (5.8). The exit we used was the highest, right-trending ramp that provided the steepest ice on the route. This ramp exits onto the summit ridge just below the top of the peak.


A small (single-set) rock rack plus a half-dozen ice screws provided excellent protection.
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Holy Nordwand! Nice addition, Larry. Aug 16, 2016