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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 460 ft
FA: Jeff Foott Jim Baldwin Hope Morehouse 8/62
Page Views: 302 total, 18/month
Shared By: Mark Grundon on Aug 2, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

P1 Climb up to a nice crack. Follow the crack to it's end. From the top of the crack head up and left clipping one or two bolts perhaps I 5.6ed over to one of Shadow noses bolts? Over 200' depending where your belayer is standing.

p2 5.7 slab off the anchor up to the flake. Climb the flake passing one bolt. The climbing slowley turns 4th class.

Location

The route starts on the ledge up and left of where most people start West Country. Look for the obvious crack not too far left of West Country.

Protection

All new ASCA bolts

Photos

The 2006 Reid/Falkenstein guide is fairly accurate and is the only one worth using for the older routes. I climb in that area almost every climable weekend and have done so for about 15 years now. All the bolts are in the same location and the Reid guide is fairly accurate but is actually missing a couple of old bolts on undocumented old routes.
I suspect that the first belay point is actually at the top of the P1 crack like the top of the Shadow Nose P1 crack because they were using 50m ropes when they did these climbs so no way they went to the bolted anchors in one pitch making the White Flake 3 pitches. The "new bolt after reaching the flake on P2" is an original placement and is in the Reid guide and was among the bolts replaced by Roger Brown. The bolts from the Shadow Nose all the way west to a mysto climb not in the guide were rebolted by Roger a little over three weeks ago and he said all the bolts were old 1/4" Leepers suggesting all bolts were original and had the same bolt count. Aug 16, 2016
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.7 R
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.7 R
As indicated, it can pay to set the belay for P1 right up at the base of the crack of P1. We did that. And with our 60m rope, the leader reached the anchor at the top of P1 with only 5 or 10 feet to spare.

Agreed - the second bolt that was reachable on P1 was a surprise as it is not in the guide Tuolumne Free Climbs, Second Edition, Aug 2009 ... neither shown for this route nor for the close-by 5.9R part of Shadow Nose.

There is also a new bolt after reaching the flake on P2.

FA'ist ok with the additional bolts? Or perhaps someone is re-writing these routes in their own style?

Last, there's a crack after the first P1 bolt which nicely takes a .3 BD C4 cam. On that note, consider bringing the rack suggested in Tuolumne Free Climbs along with a cam equivalent to the .3 BD C4. Aug 8, 2016