Type: Trad, Alpine, 460 ft
FA: Jeff Foott Jim Baldwin Hope Morehouse 8/62
Page Views: 507 total · 18/month
Shared By: Mark Grundon on Aug 2, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

P1 Climb up to a nice crack. Follow the crack to it's end. From the top of the crack head up and left clipping one or two bolts perhaps I 5.6ed over to one of Shadow noses bolts? Over 200' depending where your belayer is standing.

p2 5.7 slab off the anchor up to the flake. Climb the flake passing one bolt. The climbing slowley turns 4th class.

Location

The route starts on the ledge up and left of where most people start West Country. Look for the obvious crack not too far left of West Country.

Protection

All new ASCA bolts

Photos

Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.7 R
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.7 R
As indicated, it can pay to set the belay for P1 right up at the base of the crack of P1. We did that. And with our 60m rope, the leader reached the anchor at the top of P1 with only 5 or 10 feet to spare.

Agreed - the second bolt that was reachable on P1 was a surprise as it is not in the guide Tuolumne Free Climbs, Second Edition, Aug 2009 ... neither shown for this route nor for the close-by 5.9R part of Shadow Nose.

There is also a new bolt after reaching the flake on P2.

FA'ist ok with the additional bolts? Or perhaps someone is re-writing these routes in their own style?

Last, there's a crack after the first P1 bolt which nicely takes a .3 BD C4 cam. On that note, consider bringing the rack suggested in Tuolumne Free Climbs along with a cam equivalent to the .3 BD C4. Aug 8, 2016
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7 R
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7 R
BETA warning:
Leaving the crack was heady. Couldn't see the bolt (BETA alert: first bolt is up and left, aim for the big dark knob/chicken head). I found that to be 5.7R. Getting to the flake from the P2 belay was more like 5.6R. Sep 9, 2018