Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Musyiyenko, Vitaliy and Ferro, Adam (07/2016)
Page Views: 1,293 total · 45/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Aug 2, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

1) Start the route at the low point of the buttress, below the big ledge you can walk around to. We scrambled a ways up to low 5th, setting up a belay on a nice ledge with a good horn to sling as the first placement. Continue climbing up good and moderate crack to a big ledge from which a wide corner with jamming in the back will take you to a good belay spot. 50 meters 5.10

2) Traverse right off the belay into a prominent left facing corner. Hand jams pretty much all the way up. There is a fun, juggy flake on top of this corner. Don't be too afraid pulling on it, seemed very solid! Belay on top, below a thin right facing corner. 5.10- 40 M

3) The Wawawiwa Dihedral - one of the best pitches, although most are pretty damn good! Nothing to say - obvious right facing corner with great finger jamming and good climbing. 11a. Belay on top 30M (depending on where you start and stop).

4) The Wizard's Sleeve crack. climb a beautiful handcrack in the corner to a ledge, from where the 'Wizard's Sleeve" splitter starts up. Climb it (cruxy) and traverse right. Belay somewhere on top of the splitter for the best stance. 25 M 5.10+

5) Climb up towards the Great Success crack in a left facing corner that turns into a short chimney with a hand crack up above. Exit the chimney and step left, around the corner, set up the belay below a BEAUTIFUL splitter. #1BD, a nut and maybe a 0.75 size can be used for an anchor, or something improvised. Length of the pitch will depend where the previous belay is set. From the area of the good ledge, this pitch should be about 50 M, 5.10-

6) The Sexy Time splitter. To gain the splitter we climbed right of the belay. Going straight up looked possible to but harder. Belay on top of the splitter, on a good ledge. 30 M 5.10

7) From the belay climb left up a sweet but short left facing corner, walk across the ledge to a steep splitter - the Gypsy Tears crack - climb it. Cruxy and not far off the ledge. May want to belay below it. I did not. Felt 10+ or 11-. To a big ledge where you can sling a block. 40 M

8) Step right and climb up a nice crack. Above it you will find an even better one - the Great Success crack. Route finding is easy. Belay on top. 5.10 55M

9) Climb straight up from the belay to another set of cracks in a left facing A shaped overhang. They are the ones that look appealing. Climb up blocky terrain to the top of the buttress.

10) Downclimb off the buttress on the south side, protect for the follower and set up a belay where it makes sense.

11) Continue roped climbing, simul or solo out. You can make this last bit as easy or as hard as you desire really.

The summit is a short walk south from the top of the buttress. A really cool balancing ball shaped rock. Take in the views and take some pictures, the place is fantastic!

Location

On the prominent buttress. NE Facing - closer to the north (right) side of the formation if facing from Mt. Whitney.

Protection

Doubles from thin to #3 with one #4 and a set of nuts. No need for anything tiny.
Triples in the red C3 through 0.4 camalot may be nice to have for the thin corner pitch.
A set of nuts.
Slings.

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