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Routes in El Segundo Piso

Acrofobia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crema de Cacahuate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diedro Negro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dos Burros T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
El Poder No Tiene Limites T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kukus Clan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Hercules T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Paloma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Limites del Poder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (Right Dihedral) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viaje Magico y Misterioso T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Adrian Benitez & Carlos Carsolio
Page Views: 103 total, 6/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Aug 1, 2016
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

A classic line, airy and slightly tricky to protect.

Start at the base of the finger crack that splits the almost vertical face, just left of a big pillar that forms a chimney about 1/3 up the way. Climb up the chimney while placing gear along the crack on the face, when the chimney ends, stand at its top (1st crux) and step back onto the face and continue up the crack passing a small roof (2nd crux) and another short bulge. Follow up a groove/gully till you reach the anchor.

Location

This route is located on the cliff's second tier, about 30 feet above the 1st-pitch anchor of Las Gamuzas. A short 4th Class scramble on ledges will get you there. Find a finger crack that splits an almost vertical face with a small roof at its top.

Bring an extra rope to rappel the route (a doubled 70m rope won't reach the starting ledge) or find the 2nd-pitch anchor of Las Gamuzas (about four meters down and left, on the back side) and get down from there if you only have one rope (you'd still have to scramble down about 5m if you have a 60m rope).

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot (doubles on the finger sizes), nuts and a few long runners.

Photos

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