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Routes in Almost Asshole Rock

A & E Finger Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Share in Torn Feet T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 142 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Jul 29, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun finger crack, but the crack is not that long, and it is filled with some vegetation. It is not really a destination climb, but it is good to do if you are already at the rock for other climbs. You have to climb up a little bit of featured rock to reach the crack. The crux is about halfway up the crack where there are no face holds. Here you must use the crack for hands and feet at the same time. At least pro is easy to place. The top is chimney-like, and you can make an anchor on a good ledge. This is a fun climb.

Location

This is on the far right side of the rock right of a crack system which goes to the top of the rock. It is the only obvious finger crack in the area and is just right of a thin tree growing out of the rock face. You scramble onto a ledge to reach it. To get down, you scramble off to the right. The guidebook calls it a "walkoff", but it involves a fourth class section with some exposure.

Protection

Standard rack. Small cams (like c3s) are good to have but so are finger-size nuts. The anchor is best with gear close to #1 Camalot-sized. Near the top of the crack, it is tight hands-sized, so a #2 Camalot works well.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
A & E looks like a nice finger crack. It has some interesting features. Can't wait to get on it. Jan 8, 2017