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Solstice
5.9,
Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: Ed Delong et al
Wyoming
> Sweetwater Rocks
> Moonstone
> Main Moonstone
Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
Mostly sport, but as the route crosses a few cracks, a few nuts or cams may be helpful. There are only 2 bolts to an intermediate anchor 70 feet up (just right of a big flake/block on a nice ledge) which I think should be skipped on the way to a 2-bolt anchor at 190 ft. This route finishes in a runnel just right of the Central Crack.
Location
This route is on the left side the second panel of rock you see on the drive in, on the smooth steep wall between Central Crack and the Flake Route. There is a small apron with a high bolt above a rising crack, perhaps 100' right of Central Crack. Rap' off w 2 60m ropes.
Protection
7 bolts on P1 and a few nuts and/or small BD cams to .4 for the cracks if you skip the first anchor; 8 more bolts to the anchors at top of P2.
[Hide Photo] What I called Panel III, 2nd Panel you see when you drive in. (Numbered L-R.)
[Hide Photo] The route starts a bit left of the rope.