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Routes in Pilot Rock

400 Foot Rope T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Chopped Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Ledge Slant T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Slab Solo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 376 total · 16/month
Shared By: David Gunnells on Jul 28, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description [Suggest Change]

Long, four pitch climb, if you top it out. Bolted anchors at the top of each pitch. Great views from top of first pitch on. First and last pitches are completely run-out - no bolts and no gear, but the climbing is great friction. Rapping off can be cumbersome due to the slope; the rope slides and hangs on the rock.

Pitch #1. Run-out to anchors. Easier path is in the water groove on the left and then move right to anchors. Steeper path is direct up to anchors. Rap rings on the bolts. 30 meters.

Pitch #2. From the anchors, go left over interesting terrain and up the water groove. Lots of gear placements. This is a really fun pitch. 40 meters.

Pitch #3. Up the water groove. Limited gear to the anchors. 30 meters.

Pitch #4. Move over lichen covered rock, that starts to flatten out to the tree ledge at climbers left. Anchor on a tree. 25 meters. Walk off to the Pilot Rock trail and hike back down to the base. You can head straight up from the anchors, but the trees at the top edge are an impenetrable thicket.

Location [Suggest Change]

Hike along the base of the crag, go down the stairs and keep to the base. This is the last break in the trees looking up. Cannot miss it. Bolts at the top of pitch one are obvious.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nuts, tri-cams, smaller cams (up to BD #0.75). Bolted anchors at the top of each pitch except the last. Finish on a tree island on climbers left.

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