PRINT: Rock Climb Challenger Glacier, Northwest Region

Challenger Glacier

5.5 Mod. Snow, Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), Grade II,

Avg: 3.8 from 20 votes
FA: Philip Dickert, Jack Hossack & George MacGowan (1936)
Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Picket Range > Northern Pickets > Mt Challenger > Main Summit

Description

From Perfect Pass or Wiley Lake, identify the highest summit on the east side of the massif. The glacier is traversed at the 7,000-7,200 level depending on crevasses. A bergshrund is passed followed by steeper exposed snow. The final rock summit goes in one pitch of 5.5 (currently fixed protection).

Location

Located on the highest summit of Mt. Challenger above the Challenger Glacier.

Protection

A few alpine draws, one or two cams if old pitons are not your thing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ascending the Glacier, Challenger Arm below

Challenger Glacier route from west end of glacier (Perfect Pass)

Chip Cole at Perfect Pass in August 1997

Approaching from Challenger Arm

Looking down Imperfect Impasse from approx 5,400 after ascending and exiting

Turning the lower SW buttress of Whatcom into the Imperfect Impasse

Not always passable. The schrund that protects the summit was totally collapsed in August 1997. We couldn't find a way around it.

Another view of the collapsed schrund in August 1997. Bit of a bummer as it takes alot of energy to get to this location.

Just below the summit block of Mt. Challenger

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug Hutchinson
Seattle and Eastrevy

As classic as moderate Cascade climbing gets. Since the Imperfect Impasse was a mystery and the beta I found was lacking here is what I wished I knew: Follow Easy Ridge to getting close, but not too close to, Whatcom Peak. Drop off the ridge somewhere around ~6,200' and at least 1/2 mile before the ridge ends at Whatcom. Diagonal downwards SW towards the toe of the SW buttress of Whatcom - dropping about 1,000' on easy snow. Wrap east around the toe of this buttress around 5,200'. Below will be trees and a vertically walled slot canyon (possibly the true Impasse?) with a waterfall at its head. You want to cross this water feature higher where it is V-shaped canyon. Make an upward traverse on ramps and ledges (4th class) on the left side of this V-shaped gully. Around ~5,400', cross the gully (which could be a raging stream or a trickle, what was splashing on the us on the last 50' of climbing) and exit up and right to traverse out of the gully towards Perfect Pass. The way is not obvious on the approach in and I assume would look very non-descript if deproaching this way. See labeled photo. Aug 3, 2020

Doug Harro
Coeur d'Alene, ID

Yeah, I wish we had known about this "imperfect pass" when we climbed it back in the 90s. We just rapped into the slot and led up the other side. We had to repeat this on the return. It is good to know there is a better way. Fantastic adventure climbing to be sure. Jul 29, 2022

Jon Huang
Seattle

- don't underestimate the route-finding challenges
- you can descend and ascend Easy Ridge on a gentle angle
- when going up Perfect Pass, stay climbers left on the heather ledges
- a 30m rope is sufficient for rappelling from summit and into the Perfect Impass
- Challenger Glacier gets hit with sun right when it rises, so plan accordingly

Trip Report here: cascadeclimbers.com/forum/t… Jul 10, 2023