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Middle Forist (Climb)

5.8, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 6 votes
FA: Brad White & Matt Peer
New Hampshire > Great N Woods R… > Mt Forist > 4. Middle Forist Area

Description

This is climb # 13 in the guide.

Again, due to the heat of the day we climbed only P1 but P2 looked nice too!

START- About 15 ft right of Shining Path there is a small slab of white-ish rock a few feet off the ground and a very low bolt Next to a dike. (photo)

P1 - Climb past the 2 lower bolts, then diagonal up and right to the 3rd bolt.[Var]   Continue right 6-10 ft, then directly up to the 4th bolt just above a small overlap.  Now straight up to a dbl bolt anchor, passing the 5th bolt,  Zig zaging a bit following the easiest line. 5.7 / 5.7+? 110-120 ft Rap with a 70m rope 

Var- Variation - Ahove the 2nd bolt reach a 6inch wide ledge. Traverse 15-20 ft right on this, then go straight up towards the 4 th bolt just above the small overlap.  ( stepping left to clip #3) . 

Note - intermediate pro available, mostly small cams or wire nuts, between the bolts.

P2 - Easily up right 25 +/- ft to the first bolt. Then up to the clean face and bolt #2.  Directly up the friction to a tiny ( 2 inch) overlap ( gear, green, maybe yellow, TCU ) and continue straight up the friction [5.6-5.7?, or slightly easier on the more featured slab just to the right] to the large overlap. Make moves up to clip the 3rd bolt above the overlap and grunt through ( 5.8?), or …. once reaching  the overlap traverse 20-25 ft left to join Shining Path to climb the overlap much more easily and on to the dbl bolt anchor!  90 ft  5.8 (+?) or 5.6-5.7 

Rap the route with a single 70m rope.

Protection

Draws and cams, mostly small-to-medium size.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Middle Forist (the Climb)
[Hide Photo] Middle Forist (the Climb)
Middle Forist, start
[Hide Photo] Middle Forist, start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The crux headwall on the second pitch is really fun and couldn't be safer. Oct 6, 2018