This is climb # 13 in the guide.
Again, due to the heat of the day we climbed only P1 but P2 looked nice too!
START- About 15 ft right of Shining Path there is a small slab of white-ish rock a few feet off the ground and a very low bolt Next to a dike. (photo)
P1 - Climb past the 2 lower bolts, then diagonal up and right to the 3rd bolt.[Var] Continue right 6-10 ft, then directly up to the 4th bolt just above a small overlap. Now straight up to a dbl bolt anchor, passing the 5th bolt, Zig zaging a bit following the easiest line. 5.7 / 5.7+? 110-120 ft Rap with a 70m rope
Var- Variation - Ahove the 2nd bolt reach a 6inch wide ledge. Traverse 15-20 ft right on this, then go straight up towards the 4 th bolt just above the small overlap. ( stepping left to clip #3) .
Note - intermediate pro available, mostly small cams or wire nuts, between the bolts.
P2 - Easily up right 25 +/- ft to the first bolt. Then up to the clean face and bolt #2. Directly up the friction to a tiny ( 2 inch) overlap ( gear, green, maybe yellow, TCU ) and continue straight up the friction [5.6-5.7?, or slightly easier on the more featured slab just to the right] to the large overlap. Make moves up to clip the 3rd bolt above the overlap and grunt through ( 5.8?), or …. once reaching the overlap traverse 20-25 ft left to join Shining Path to climb the overlap much more easily and on to the dbl bolt anchor! 90 ft 5.8 (+?) or 5.6-5.7
Rap the route with a single 70m rope.
Ben Townsend
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[Hide Comment] The crux headwall on the second pitch is really fun and couldn't be safer.
Oct 6, 2018
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