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Routes in Old Mountain Rd.

Another Unnamed Arete :) V1-2 5
Hurry Up I'm Dying V5- 6C
Schism project V9 7C
Unnamed Arete V1 5
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Type: Boulder
FA: Project
Page Views: 171 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dana Seaton on Jul 27, 2016
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

A natural right to left traverse using a thin seam and slopers to gain the boulders left arete and topout. Starts on the right side of the boulder. Needs to be re cleaned.

The left arete itself goes at V6(?) and went from a sit by Nick Alejandro BITD.

Location

The boulder is off Old Mt Road directly across from the modern home with a guest house perched on the rocks above the house. Park at the bottom of the hill at the entrance gate, walk through the woods parallel to the road to avoid being hit by cars that fly down the hill. This is a little past a bigger boulder and is fairly unnoticeable until you are right up to it. The climbing is on the side away from the road. The approach as described is just a few minutes.

Protection

Flat landing

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I played on this a little the last couple days and scrubbed most of it (still needs the finish scrubbed) It is hard. It has been a number of years since I climbed a V9, but it seemed harder than that to me. There was fresh chalk on it so somebody else has been working on it also. They missed a lot of holds under the moss above the lip, so if it is you you should find more to work with when you get back. Most of my better attempts consisted of pulling on at various points, barely doing one move and falling off quickly on the next.

The sit start to the arete seemed kind of like a nasty one move wonder start to an easy finish, but I'll give it a try once I have the top clean. Nov 28, 2016

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