DLM Memorial Route
Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.6 from 14
FA: Matt and Kathy Barker - 2015
> Great N Woods R…
> Mt Forist
> 3. Madigan Area
This is the furthest left route (climb #1) in the "guide pamphlet". Other climbs further left have now been put in; see "South End Area".
Pitches 5 & 6 are truly beautiful pitches.
APPROACH -About 75 +/- ft up and left from the start of Madigan. There is now a branch of the main climber's path that goes directly up to this climb.
START- on the face 15 +/- feet right of the large, right-facing corner composed of large flakes (photo).
Six pitches to the top. (See "Guide pamphlet"), or use our description:
P1 - Climb (unprotected-the pitch's crux) up to a small( 6-inch) overlap about 15-20 ft up (gear, TCU). Climb over easily up to the first bolt. Then follow bolts up, with some zig-zagging, to anchor. 100 ft 5.6 PG-13/R? There may be an easier/safer way to Bolt #1.
P2 - The Guide says "follow easiest line" and that's a good idea below the first bolt which is about 35-40 ft up! This first bolt is sort of in the middle of a small, very smooth slab. I climbed a couple of feet Left of the bolt on smoothed flakes (sort of dike like) and felt it 5.7+ / 5.8-. Partner went up the slab, basically directly over the bolt (5.8 / 5.8+?) or there may be an easier way several feet further right, then stepping back left to clip the higher bolt. We both felt this is the crux of the climb. A good place to use that quickdraw you have with two locking biners on it. Continue to anchor. 100 ft 5.7+/5.8
P3 - Up easy slab, through gap in bushes to another easy slab, step off top onto dirt (bolt ! , photo) to anchor. 85 ft 5.3-5.4
P4 - Up easy slab above, staying slightly right, then more right towards trees. Pass by a double bolt anchor [ optional belay, but anchor is predominantly for the rap line ] and continue another 30-35 ft right and up onto the "beautiful slab." 140 ft 5.3 - 5.4
P5 - (Variations 5a & 5b, There are three ways to do the 5th pitch) From the double bolt anchor at the base of the slab climb directly up passing a jutting, Right-facing flake [photo] (with bush just to the right) then onto the steeper, smooth slab above (bolt). Up the slab passing 2 bolts to a Left-facing flake (gear) and on to the anchor. Upper slab is very continuous 5.6 120 ft 5.6+
P5a - ("Rain in In" 5.8+ see COMMENT) From the dbl bolt anchor at the base of the slab, step 5-10 ft right and climb up sparsly-placed bolts (easier climbing slightly right), reaching a bolt 5-10 feet right of the bush mentioned in P5. Now follow bolts up the even steeper and smoother slab about 5-10 ft right of the line of P5. 120 ft 5.8
P5b - ("Sea of Bowls" see COMMENT 5.7, and goes to its own anchor below the headwall) From the dbl bolt anchor at the base of the slab, step 15-20 ft right and climb up via a quartz dike in pegmitite-type rock. Continue up easily to the start of the upper slab. Climb the clean, white-ish slab about 10 ft right of the line of P5a. To leave "Sea of Bowls" and return to DLM move left when you see the DLM anchor. 120 ft 5.6 - 5.7
P6 - From the anchor at the end of the 5th pitch, continue up the slab (bolts) to the headwall with 3 closely spaced bolts. Up this (5.7, considered the crux by FA party) and then walk 20 ft left in the woods to a double bolt anchor on a huge block. 125 ft, 5.7 See also COMMENTs about possible alternative headwall ending to the left of the bolted line.
Descent - Rap the route, can be done with a single 70m, possibly with a single 60m with one or two creative raps (most notably the rap down P5 would probably have to be split using the tree on climber's left (viewer's right) about half way up the pitch; and the very first rap might leave you a foot or two short of the top-of-P5 anchor; so perhaps(?) use a tree instead of the top-most 2 bolt anchor(?)
Draws for the bolts. Gear placements here and there. We used nothing larger than a 0.5 (purple) Camalot-sized cam.
Rappelling as the sun sets. We used a single 70m. 3 long pitches up, 6 or 7 raps down. RAPPEL FROM THE LOWER P4 ANCHORS, FROM THE UPPER ANCHORS YOU WILL NOT REACH THE P3 ANCHORS WITH A SINGLE 70m.…
Looking Up the stellar P5 of "DLM-Memorial" Alternate "P5a" climbs a few feet right of the bush. The tree on left MIGHT help a party trying to rap with a single 60m rope.
DLM Memorial Route Anchor locations ("BB") for top of P1 and P2 are approximate. Especially P2's, which are about 20-30 ft too high.
View from the top in early October
Ben at the P.1 anchors.
DLM, P6 anchor. Big boulder in the trees.
RW points towards DLM. The large R-facing corner composed of large flakes is behind him. The small (6") overlap is clearly seen with its shadow.
Beyond the P3 anchors and past 3 bolts to a tree on the left to set up an anchor. July 4, 2019.
Looking up at the DLM Memorial route from the parking area. Visible is P3 to the headwall on the last pitch. July 4, 2019.
"Close up" of headwall