Type: Trad, Alpine, 5000 ft, Grade III
FA: Greenwood Boles 1961
Page Views: 486 total · 16/month
Shared By: kiff on Jul 26, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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I saw this route from the top of Temple and it screamed 'climb me!' That and the reputation for some crap rock caught my attention, gotta see what purported choss is really like...famous last words.
This is a great mountain route, not overly-intricate route finding (just stay on the ridge!) lots of technical downclimbing and some heart swallowing exposure from time to time. The final notch in 'n' out then in 'n' out feels way out there.
From Wenkchemna Pass one can either tackle the ridge directly via broken ledges and jugs to an easy chimney or said one may move across snow to the left, then steeply up and right to gain the ridge where the direct method meets up where the ridge is quite low angled.
I recommend simply following the ridge from here (the north face is steep and terrifying to look down), encountering some more technical climbing but it's more fun than the slate and shale 3rd class junk you can slog up further right (west). Enjoy summit, number one.
Downclimbing towards the col between Neptuak and Deltaform is involved, selective rappeling will certainly make it easier for some, but is not necessary. I thought this bit had some of the worst rock.
The col holds some very posh overnight accommodations (can be windy). When it begins to steepen again, stick to the ridge line (redundant?). Further along, conditions may force you right into a steep gully/recess which can be snow/ice filled, be prepared.
The final "boulder problem" is the notch- the summit's oh so close! Full of rime and steep on all sides, things suddenly feel serious. The climb out to the summit yields to balance and proper route finding, which feels easier when reversed.
Descend by returning from whence you came.


If you have to be told, then bring more. I would say that most will enjoy having a single 60m rope. There's a lot of tat up there already, can't say it needs any more.