Goblin Arete

Climb

A stellar arete climb bolted by Genereux in the early 90's. Notably, the climb has a distinct Genereux "modern mixed" flavour where you should not expect to pull cruxes with a bolt clipped above your head, but should trust that there is a bolt placed where you need it! A few pieces of gear are nice to supplement the bolts - most pitches can only take a piece or two, bring a cool head for the "sport" run-outs! Amazing rock, excellent exposure, and a beyond beautiful setting. 

P1 (5.11, 35 m, 9 bolts): From the far left side of the tree'd ledge (bolt with a quick link) climb some less than enjoyable rock for ~10 meters past a few bolts, keeping the bolts on your right. Where it begins to steepen, keep going straight up (one can also go left, which is less fun) through steep, juggy terrain. Cut right under the roof onto the face, clip a bolt, execute a few thin face moves up and left for the route's crux and run it to the chains. Belay at a stance on the arete. 

P2 (5.10, 15 m, 3 bolts, 2 pins): From the belay stance, head up and cross right onto the face. Techy climbing leads you past a few bolts until you can return to the arete. Continue up the arete passing 2 pins (5.8) and then run it out over progressively easier terrain (5.6 down to 4th class) to belay on a nice ledge under a roof in the corner. 

P3 (5.9, 45+ m, 10 bolts): Exit the belay to the left, heading up the crack for a couple of meters. Traverse hard right under the next mini-roof to regain the arete. Look to the right to take note of the "Love at First Sight" belay station just a little bit above where you pull onto the arete, you'll use this on your rap. Cruise the arete for the remaining ~35 m of the pitch on big holds to a semi-hanging chain belay.

P4 (5.10, 15 m, 3 bolts): Head up the face or the arete to a high first bolt.For maximum enjoyment, do your best to stay on the arete! Belay on a big, grassy ledge.

Rappel

From the top of P4, rap back to the semi-hanging belay (chains) at the top of P3 (~15 m). From here, rap slightly climbers right to the rap rings on the face (Love At First Sight) near where you regained the arete (~27 m). Rap straight down to rings just under the small roof (~30 m), and then all the way to the dirt (35 m on the nose).

Getting There:

From the parking head left on the well used tourist trail. Branch right as soon as you can to take the good trail that contours the lake shore down low (not a complete sidewalk). Follow the trail up at the first scree/boulder field, aiming for the drainage just under the arete. Access the arete from the right end of the ledge. Budget ~45 minutes for the approach, don't cross more than one scree field.