PRINT: Rock Climb Madigan, Great North Woods Region

Madigan

5.6, Sport, 200 ft (61 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 25 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Great N Woods R… > Mt Forist > 3. Madigan Area

Description

This is climb#5 in the "guide-pamphlet". Although listed as a "sport" climb, there are gear placements.

A lovely 2 pitch climb with bolted anchors. Start on the clean face ( 5.5-5.6 PG-13/R, groundfall) directly behind the broken tree; alternately, scramble up left and move back right on the face to the first bolt.

P1 - Six bolts to an anchor. I'd say the crux is up around bolt #5 or so. Maybe I missed the easiest way, but thought it closer to 5.7 than 5.6.

P2 - After some thin climbing directly above the belay, up and left-ish following 5 bolts to a double bolt anchor.

Descent - From the P2 anchors rap to the Forist Gump anchors and then to the ground. (Even a 70m will probably not make it back to the P1 anchors on Madigan unless it's cut quite long.)

Protection

Draws, optional gear is mostly small & medium cams

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Madigan, first pitch

Madigan, second pitch.

"Landmark" broken tree just below the base of Madigan

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Birk
Boston, MA

5.7

I thought this route was a grade or two harder than 5.6. Thin and tricky at spots, especially on the first pitch. Double ropes will just about get you down in one rappel. Jul 28, 2016

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH

5.6

I agree. I put it in as 5.6 since the guide (and thus the FA-er's?) listed it as that, but (personally) felt it was 5.6+ to easy 5.7.

Of course, on slab like this you can miss one crimper, or one foothold, and what is 5.5 with the hold becomes 5.7 without it.

MtnPrjct is now set up to take into consideration the "suggested ratings" posted by other climber's when they "tick" it off, if enough folk think it 5.7 the "official" rating will change. Jul 29, 2016

Tom Sawyer
North Conway, NH

I led this fine climb after doing Lichen It and feel it is a bit more challenging - maybe a 5.6+ or 5.7-. This was my 2nd lead on the climb. Instead of starting on the ledge to the left and below the 1st bolt, which I did the first time, I started from directly below the bolt. A bit more risky because of a potential ground fall (especially for this climber who is in his 70's). I did manage to get a very small cam in shortly after leaving the ground but did not feel it was bomb-proof. May try a small nut next time. Still a very enjoyable climb. Jul 7, 2017

Mark NH
03053

Did this today and thought it felt on the easier 5.6 side. Like Robert said - you miss something it’s harder you find something it’s easier. I musta found holds! Oct 4, 2017

P S
Boulder

5.6

The crux for me was getting to the first clip without deviating left. After the first clip, the climb was cruiser (even if wet). Second pitch wasn’t dry, so lowered off a 70m at the anchor. Felt like a 5.6 with some fun moves. May 21, 2019

june m
elmore, vt

Our 70 m rope did not reach the anchor on top of pitch 1 missed by about 2 meters. Had to climb up to the anchor on forest gump felt like 5.6 to me. Perhaps we went to the top anchor on forest gump Sep 19, 2019

june m
elmore, vt

After many e-mails back and forth with Rob Hall I have concluded that my partner rapped to the incorrect anchor to the left of the correct anchor. Although neither of us noticed the correct anchor. Sep 22, 2019

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH

5.6

June - You're correct. Was up there today and single 70 won't make it back from the P1 to P2 anchors on Madigan. Thje Forist Gump anchors are directly in line and a bit higher. Sep 28, 2019