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Routes in Twin Creek

465 Easy St. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
465 Variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hearing Voices T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Live Trap T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mandible T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: William Kramer, Wyatt Kramer
Page Views: 82 total, 5/month
Shared By: William Kramer on Jul 26, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Starts on splitter finger crack that zig zags up through horizontal cracks to a big ledge. All the cracks give it a blocky, insecure look, but it feels really solid. Right underneath the ledge, rock quality diminishes severely, if you go to far right, it turns into dry mud, just go straight up through the few feet of secure choss and gain the ledge. From the ledge up is a beautiful, slightly overhanging hand crack.

The first section can be bypassed by climbing the beginning of 465 Easy St. up to the Fork in the Road ledge, then traversing over to the crack. Doing this would knock the rating down to 5.9, maybe 5.9+.

Location

This route is in the first alcove on the east end of the formation. It is the obvious crack splitting the middle of the wall.

Protection

Used a Blue Totem Basic and a Green Totem Basic on the bottom section, then 2 #1, and #4. There is a good #3 placement above where I placed the #4, I elected to use that spot for hand jams instead of protection. 3 glue in bolts on top.

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