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Routes in unsorted Clough State Park routes

Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: Jake Perry
Page Views: 145 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jake Perry on Jul 25, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A tricky problem with smooth slopers. Although short, it packs quite a few moves. The arete is smooth granite, which is friendly on your hands and atypical for Clough.

Start sitting with your hands below the lip in a pocket and on a sloper sidepull or hold right of the pocket. Figure out your feet and pull up. Traverse the slopey lip (it is bad!) until you can get to the left arete and throw to the peak of the boulder, or use some serious beta trickery (toehooks, heelhooks, leg-bars, and more toehooks) to get to the top.

Location

Right in the woods before the orange gate, on the same boulder as Frog Legs V3.

Protection

2 pads. The landing is mostly flat, but the last move could fling you into a rock or some roots.

Photos

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
 
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
 
I put this up on my own and I ended up sending with some beta that is very "Jake Perry" -esque (Toehooks, kneebars, bathangs). Hence the name. A lot of moves for a little problem. The slopers have a little drop edge in them, causing half of the sloper to be useless for most of the way.

My beta is not for everyone, but it worked for me! Jul 25, 2016