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Routes in Mt. Ritter

North Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
SE Glacier
Type: Alpine, 3000 ft
FA: John Muir, 1872 (on descent)
Page Views: 919 total, 56/month
Shared By: BradLipovsky on Jul 23, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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6 Opinions

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Description

A classic glacier outing. This route first gains a large bench from the stream that feeds into Ediza Lake. Opinion varies about how to do this. Some prefer the rock and some prefer the snow. Both work just fine. From the bench follow the glacier until it ends. Be prepared for big suncups in the summer. When the glacier ends bear right onto talus to gain the summit plateau. Then go to the top, crossing a snowfield. From Ediza Lake, the route is 2.35 miles and 3960 vertical feet. The total roundtrip with the approach is 19.4 miles and 7053 vertical feet.

Location

The route starts at the base of a large bench above the inlet stream to Ediza Lake. To get there, go to Ediza Lake and then proceed West along the creek. Stay on the North side of the creek. The roudtrip from Agnew Meadows to Ediza Lake is 14.7 miles and 3093 vertical feet.

Protection

Nothing, really.
Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
This was my first experience with mountaineering and it made quite a good introduction. There were a few exhausting sections of step-cutting across steep snow, but otherwise it was mostly scrambling and hiking up talus (in early July). We were a bit confused as to where the actual glacier was since it was little more than a thin snow patch when we were there... see John Muir's Mountains of California for an exciting account of the route's first descent when the glacier was much more spectacular. Jul 25, 2016