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Routes in The Convent

Buddha's Delight T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Choir Boyz T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Girls Gone Wild T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Middle Way, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Renate Goes to Eleven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Hotdogs and a Hallway T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ PG13
Value of Audacity, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whore House T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Sam Boyce, Andrew Parnas 7/23
Page Views: 256 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Jul 23, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Giant left facing corner between west face dihedral and value of audacity. This thing is loose! Kinda scary in places, dirty and adventurous; worth doing once. It will clean up substantially with traffic and will go free around 5.12.
P1- start in the corner below the ridiculous roof. Dirty but perfect splitter hands brings you up to the roof. A cryptic and difficult free sequence would do it. I aided it, good gear, funky aid. Some easier wide crack leads you up to a belay (#4's) above some scary wobbly blocks. 100 ft 5.10 C1+
P2- start up the good #4 crack, after a while you'll reach a stance and transition to thin #5 lay back up and into the chimney 2 #6 belay back in the chimney. 120 ft 5.10
P3- chimney up and traverse out the rubble roof, easy moves exit, and back in, tunnel deep for a #5 crack as your belay. 70 ft 5.8
P4- a little run-out on easy ground. Up deep in the chimney until a traverse out to exit is obvious with a foot rail. Make sure and have some small fingers gear and a 6. Up and over, belay on a rubble pile in some good cracks. 5.6R
P5- Kinda fun. Tunnel deep behind a huge chock stone then on top. Easy chimney protected with a .3 crack. Up and tunnel through, #3-5 belay. 80 ft 5.9
P6- turn left on the giant ledge. Up a surprisingly difficult squeeze chimney and ow to another ledge. Turn left then up a really short easy corner to another ledge, #4 belay straight above. 50 ft 5.10
P7- straight up the easy #4/5 crack to the top out. Many belay options. 30 ft 5.7

Descent- head up and over the summit, then scramble down to the rim, shortly you'll see a cairn to mark the rappels for choir boyz. Single 70 rap straight down.

Location

Approach via the same road as for sister superior, about a mile up the wash there will be a sharp 90 degree right turn that can be spicy for smaller cars. Park right before this, follow the smaller side wash that converges at the apex of this sharp corner in the road (big cairn as of 6/30). Follow this wash for a short ways until it makes a sharp 90 degree right corner with another smaller wash continuing straight, follow this (another cairn as of 6/30). After a short distance up this even smaller wash break left to make for the ridge line taking care to avoid crypto. Once on the ridge line a faint trail will become evident. Follow the apex of the ridge all the way up to where you meet some cliff bands and the trail disappears. Go right up into the talus gully, and straight up the talus to the base, this bit kind of sucks, but its not too bad. Work your way near the base of choir boyz, obvious shallow left facing splitter corner. Rack up here and drop packs. Walk over to the base of value of audacity and crawl through the horizontal weakness. The start is just after the crawl and right before you reach the base of west face dihedral.

Protection

6-2, 5-2, 4-3 or 4, 3-2, 2-3, 1-1, .75-1, .5-1, .4-1, .3-2, optional micros, single set small nuts, single 70

Photos

Sam Boyce
Changes with the seasons
 
Sam Boyce   Changes with the seasons
 
This thing would honestly be a really fun and unique route if it got some traffic, probably up a star or two. It's just so dirty... Jul 23, 2016

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