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Routes in Dance Hall Boulder

Type: Boulder
FA: Mark Sprague , Fall 2016
Page Views: 224 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dana Seaton on Jul 22, 2016
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

On the front face start with hands in the horizontal crack below the vertical seam. Do a tricky move to get established in the seam with your feet in the horizontal than shuffle your feet a little left until you can get your toe in the quartz pocket. Use some very thin edges and balance to angle up left a little and gain a good edge in an angling seam (staying right of the arete) then top out.

Staying with the vertical seam and topping out straight up as first envisioned is a little contrived but will possibly go at a considerably higher grade.

Protection

A couple pads - flat landing with tree and stonewall behind.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  V3+
M Sprague   New England  
  V3+
Depends how contrived it ends up feeling. I'd probably list it as a variation in the description, but see how it is when you get it. Feb 25, 2017
John Mitrano
Wakefield, RI
  V8
John Mitrano   Wakefield, RI
  V8
The way I keep trying it may be a little more contrived then the V3/V4. Instead of moving left of the vertical seam, I stay right of it mainly only using the seam aside from a 1 or 2 crystal crimps out right. I still haven't gotten it that way but i'm right at the top. If it went would it go as alternative beta, or another route? Feb 24, 2017
M Sprague
New England
  V3+
M Sprague   New England  
  V3+
I did this yesterday. After not climbing for a few weeks I came on it fresh and with slightly different beta that made the bottom seem much easier. After getting established in the vertical crack with my feet in the horizontal, I shuffle my feet to the left a little so I could get my left toe into the quartz pocket then angled my hands left on some small edges and reached high for a good edge in the angling seam and topped out just right of the arete. It was only at the top that I could have used the arete, but it was just as easy to reach the top so it did not feel contrived. Going straight up from the top of the vertical crack seemed pretty thin and contrived, but may be doable with a small pinchy knob at a lot harder grade. The way I did it seemed like a 3+ or 4 at most but I know I threw myself at the opening several sessions before to no avail so who knows. Oct 31, 2016
Dana Seaton  
 
Like the rest of the boulder, this thing needs proper cleaning. I think that will make the feet feel more solid. So that pretty cool you were able to go straight up into the seam, then it becomes tempting to traverse off left or right. I say if you can go straight up the crack without reaching to the left arete everything is on. It may be contrived, don't know as I haven't made more than the first move up the crack. Sep 15, 2016
John Mitrano
Wakefield, RI
  V8
John Mitrano   Wakefield, RI
  V8
I tried this the other day and it seems pretty cool. I was able to establish my feet in the horizontal crack but couldn't figure it out from there. Seems harder then V7 but idk. Is the smaller higher vertical seam to the left on? Sep 14, 2016