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A Boy And His Dog V3+ 6A+
A River Runs Through It V3 6A
Beavers Attack From Above V0 4
Black Fly TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bloody Bath Water V7-8 7B
Blue Skied Moon V7-8 7B
Boulder-Rama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brother John V3 6A
Butt Slap V2 5+
Cast Away V2+ 5+
Center Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Comrad V5 6C
Cough Syrup V8 7B
Drive By V0+ 4+
EZ's Problem V5 6C
Ethnic Cleansing V6-7 7A+
Ethnic Cleansing Sit V8-9 7B+
Fido V5 6C
Fido Low V6- 7A
Flower Child V5 6C
Flower Power V3 6A
Flower Traverse V2 5+
Free Base T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghetto Knowledge V8-9 7B+
Gums (aka Timex) V3-4 6A+
Inside Corner TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Italian Stallion V7 7A+
Jinx V3-4 6A+
John's Problem V4 6B
Josh's Dilemna V1 5
Left Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Locomotive Breath T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantlepiece V1 5
Mayonnaise V6 7A
Miracle Whip V5 6C
Motherf***er V6 7A
Near Life V2 5+
Obstacle Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside Corner T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Pit, The V8-9 7B+ PG13
Professor Booty V9 7C
Right Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
River Project, The V10-11 8A
Roadside Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Rusty Mustad V0 4
Sally V0 4
Sally Sat Down V4 6B
Sand Wedge V3 6A
Seeing Red V3 6A
Sneaker Problem V1 5
Snicker V4 6B
Snicker-Doodle V8 7B
Tabasco T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Under The Box V2 5+
Welcome to the Fold V5 6C
With Confidence V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 17 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 196 total · 10/month
Shared By: Graham O. on Jul 21, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

A sit start to the classic Fido. Not quite as good because of the awkward process of pulling on, but worth doing if you love Fido (like me) but want to change it up a bit. Overall, a fun way to add some drama to an established classic.

Sit start with a LH on a sharp pinch directly below the starting hold of Fido and a LH on a good crimp in the faint seam out right. Bump your right hand to the start hold of Fido. Match or cross to the intermediate and pull that awesome deadpoint. Make your way up the face via good crimps to the juggy crack. Follow the crack to the finish and topout.

Location

Straight up the middle of the 45 to Life Wall, sit start just below the start of Fido.

Protection

A few pads and an experienced spotter; it's pretty tall and the landing isn't exactly ideal.

Photos

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Graham O.  
 
Ok, thanks for the info Bryce! Mar 7, 2017
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
Jake's first thought was correct - the video and description are incorrect. The problem doesn't just add a single move and it isn't an eliminate. It starts with both hands on the bad crimps to the right, not with a hand mere inches from the original start hold, is a hard pull off the ground and a big move to the starting hold of Fido. It is really hard, but it climbs very well. Mar 5, 2017
Graham O.  
 
Will do! Jul 25, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I agree variations can be added. I don't think this line needs to be deleted, just update the description to not be an eliminate. Cheers, keep on exploring! Jul 25, 2016
Graham O.  
 
Ok I understand. I agree that eliminates shouldn't be individually posted, but I do think variations should. Thanks for the compliment, though. Should I delete the route? Jul 24, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
It might be a more fun way to do it but it does not create a new line. Saying you can't match, or use an obvious hold makes it an eliminate. Eliminates are fun but not individual lines. I would suggest to post the eliminate in the comments and encourage people to try it because the fun moves. I would be very hesitant to start posting "new routes" that just require skipping or not using a hold in the a certain way, those are variations/eliminates and are best suited for the comments section.

I want to add that I love trying new variations that are posted and applause your exploratory and adventurous spirit, just don't want to clog this great resource down with a bunch of eliminates or variations.

I believe the the description for Fido Low should describe the moves in the video, either way, it seems to add mediocre climbing to a very classy route. Jul 24, 2016
Graham O.  
 
The way I've always known it is just a way to make that move on Fido more dramatic. If you don't match the start hold of Fido or use that intermediate, it forces a huge left hand throw to the good edge. This move is pretty sick, and different enough from the original move that I thought the climb was worth posting. I've never thought about it before, but matching the start hold would just add one v4ish move to the original problem. The way I described it in the description is the way I've always tried it. It makes it extremely contrived but that move makes up for it... Jul 23, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
I've looked at this before and I'm pretty sure it just starts both hands on bad crimps in the seam to the right of the regular start holds, traverses left to the Fido start and then finishes like Fido. I don't see how matching or whatever would make it the same problem, Fido low looks like it essentially just adds two or three brick hard moves, pulling off the ground, throwing Lh out to the start, bumping Lh down further, then coming Rh into the right start hold.

Edit: Follow the video Matt posted that's gotta be right. I thought it started matched in the seam, I bet it could go that way but it would be heinous, real hard, and probably not good. Jul 23, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Prohibiting moves and holds for the sake of making another problem seems a bit silly. Full blown eliminates, like this, should be posted as variations in the comments of the climb. There is a fine lie between a different route and a fun eliminate to try once you have climbed it the other way. This seems more like an eliminate and such does not really deserve its own place in the data base. However this is just my opinion!

And this video of the low-sit has the holds you list as "off" being used and a different grade, have you climbed the low sit?


vimeo.com/17260983 Jul 22, 2016

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