Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: NOLS?
Page Views: 296 total · 10/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Jul 20, 2016
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Sticky situation Details

Description

This isn't my route, but I had a blast on a route that gets to the top in 3 full pitches without a single bolt. (Great fun and maybe a break for your calf muscles?) We used a 60 m rope and ran it out to the end at every pitch, but you could pick your spot based on your pro/length of rope. This is route 19 on Bob Branscomb's excellent topo pitctured on the main page.

Route is in the shade in the later afternoon. I put question marks on 2 exits that we used, unroped. You walk down after crossing over the entire dome to the slabs at the far left. (Bring shoes?) Alternatively, if you know where the routes are that almost top out, you could carry an extra rope and rap down to the cabin, probably.

Location

There are 3 major traversing cracks on the left 1/4 of the dome (actually the first thing you see when pull into the area). This starts where all of the crack routes start, below the obvious roof of the Flake Route, and a bit right from a big flat rock. It is the middle crack of the 3 traversing cracks.

Protection

My SR is a single full set of nuts and single cams from .3 -3, which I found quite adequate. You may want doubles if run-outs make you crazy. (The whole thing is traversing, so remember your partner!) Bring your nutpick to dig out the crack in places where you want.

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