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Routes in The Playground

Flying Circus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grunt Groove T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Juvenile Chunk Head T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Let There Be Jugs TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
None Shall Pass TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penal Servitude TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty Python TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scoop, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Six Pack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stegosaurus! T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Surfin' On Heroin TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Throne, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
V-Chimney, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: D. Diedricksen & S. Martin
Page Views: 125 total, 7/month
Shared By: Dust Diedricksen on Jul 19, 2016
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This is a somewhat-contrived line that is really fun, a one move wonder, perhaps? Climb the two “bony plates” to a small pocket-cave on the left side of the Piton Face. The chimney-like feature to the left of the first boulder is off route. Climb up and on top of the first 8’ boulder that has a tiny roof – staying to the right is v-easy, the left is a bit harder. Take a large step across a small void to the taller plate (stay on the tallest blocks), and make one more step across to an angling ledge just below the upside-down-triangle, pocket cave (that can barely fit a person). Hook your toe in the low pocket/jug on the (climber’s) right wall/corner of the pocket cave, and press against the opposing, low-angling slab to your left (across another gap). Make a very committing, full-body stem move by walking up the backside of the pocket cave and moving your hands up the slab (you will be in a push-up position). When you move your hands high enough on the slab, make a lunge step across the gap (i.e., a spiderman push-up). Don’t have your hands slip out or you’ll do a faceplant on the slab. Pull on some crimps, and reach for the jug at the top wall.

Location

This route is immediately to the right of Rusty Python and to the left of the imposing Piton Face. Look for the distinguishable (2) "stegosaurus plates" that lead up to the small, upside-down-triangle pocket cave.

Protection

Toprope with 50'+ static rope (rock and tree combo). Trad has an R rating because you can't protect the full-stem crux move where you lay out across the upper gap with the potential for a faceplant and/or an ugly fall.

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