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Routes in Baboon Buttress

Bovenator, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamers S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grizzly Behr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice scream sundae S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Behrly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lucky Leila S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Renewable energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twice In A Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Andrew Pedley August 2010. MCSA bolts.
Page Views: 85 total, 5/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

An eye catching line with intricate moves, perfect rock, and multiple cruxes that get progressively harder. Besides a few roof sections, this route is not terribly steep. However, it is extremely pumpy.

Start up a corner on poor sidepulls to a tricky move over a roof to a jug. Move right on angular holds, and make a tough undercling move over the huge roof to a massive jug. Hop to the horizontal crack and take a break before tackling the next boulder problem.

Power past flat sidepulls and crimps to a slightly worse rest at set of large edges. Pinch the large, glassy sidepulls, build your feet, and go big for a decent edge. Try to get a little back, then fight past a final section of half-pad sidepulls and polished foot smears to the anchors.

Felt more like 13a, but the online guide suggests 12d.

Do you have what it takes to be the Bovenator?

Location

To the right of Condor.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Use a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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